Wine Tourism in Czechia

Geoffrey Dean on why we need to explore Czechia and its wines

With over 1300 vineyard sites, 18,500 hectares under vine and an array of impressive mid-market and premium wines, many utilising fascinating and original hybrids, Czechia is a wine-producing country that is more than just a friend and near-neighbour of Austria. Quite apart from the fast-emerging wine scene the country is also a cornucopia of things to do and see for travellers, not all involving wine and beer! As Geoffrey Dean discovered.

30th May 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

Drinkers and importers on the lookout for a little-known gem of a wine-producing country should look no further than the Czech Republic. While reputed for the quality of its beer, Czechia, as it likes to be called, has a long history of wine-making dating back to Roman times, and produces a good deal of mid-market and premium labels from its 18,504 hectares under vine.

While domestic demand accounts for the majority of consumption, it has slipped to 19 litres per head per annum (compared to 146 litres for beer), and winemakers are keen to expand and develop sales in foreign markets.

Increasing wine tourism is also another focus, with Czechia’s two wine regions - Moravia and Bohemia - offering excellent value-for-money and a plethora of things to do and see for travellers, as I discovered on a trip this spring. For, Czechia has 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites, 200 castles that are open, 44,000 kms of marked hiking trails, 37,000 kms of cycling routes and over 100 golf courses. Vineyard sites number as many as 1,313, with white grapes making up 72% and black 28%.

Two main wine regions - Moravia and Bohemia

Moravia, which lies in the south-east of Czechia just over the border from Austria, is home to as much as 96% of the country’s vineyards. Bohemia, known locally as Cechy, has only 710 ha under vine, scattered within a 100 km radius of Prague. To get to Moravia, it is actually quicker to fly to Vienna and drive to the postcard-pretty town of Mikulov, an hour away just over the border. From Prague, it is a 250-km drive. One of Moravia’s four wine regions, Mikulovska, is named after the town, with the other three being Znojemska, Velkopavlovicka and Slovacka.

Znojmo Enoteca manager Petra Pokorna

The National Wine Centre, in the neighbouring town of Valtice, is housed in an old chateau once owned by the Liechtenstein family. Its ancient cellars contain 100 of Czechia’s better labels, with tasting samples possible from as many as you want during a two-hour period (at a cost of €29). A short drive away can be found the ultra-modern Obelisk winery, where visitors can stay in villas and dine at its excellent restaurant.

By contrast, the small-scale Plener winery in the nearby village of Pavlov has a rustic feel, with cellars dating back to the 17th century. It produces eleven labels, including two from Muller-Thurgau, the second most widely planted grape in Czechia behind Gruner Veltliner. Its Riesling and Welschriesling, the next most planted, showed well. So too did their Blaufrankisch (known locally as Frankovka), the most planted red varietal in Czechia ahead of Saint Laurent, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir. The influence of neighbouring Austria is unmistakable.

Vrbice wine cellars

The attractive little settlement of Vrbice houses a score of Hobbit-like cellars that were dug out over a hundred years ago from the loess soil beneath 130 hectares of vines surrounding the village. We met a local grower named Miroslav Gala, one of nearly 15,000 in Czechia, and tasted his Hibernal, a fresh and fruity white created by crossing Chancellor and Riesling.

Hibernal is a hybrid created in Germany in 1944 but is more commonly found in Czechia. Czechia has a notably good cross of its own, the amusingly-named Palava that was bred from Savagnin Rose and Muller-Thurgau. Pink-skinned, it produces an aromatic, spicy white with real character as we discovered with one premium example from the impressive Velke Bilovice winery.

Velke Bilovice winemaker Lubomira Hornakova.jpg

The Gloriette 2020 label (priced locally at €20), which won a bronze medal at Decanter World Wine Awards, was full-bodied thanks to some barrel-ageing, and had alluring lychee and pineapple notes. Winemaker Lubomira Hornakova has 20 hectares under vine on limestone soils, giving minerality to labels that also include Sauvignon Blanc and off-dry versions of Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc.

Thaya winemaker Jakub Smrcka with his Chardonnay 2023

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay are planted in broadly equal amounts in Czechia. One of its leading wineries - Thaya - makes a complex example of the latter from vines whose average age is 20 years. Being in a cool climate region, the Thaya Chardonnay 2023 had a low pH of 3.1, encouraging winemaker Jakub Smrcka to put it through 100% malolactic fermentation.

“We make only 3,000 bottles of this wine, which sees 40% new oak,” he said. “Our soils are a combination of loess and granite, which gives both expression, tension and minerality. In total, we make around 230,000 bottles a year from 13 varieties on 105 hectares.”

Both his Pinot Noir, which sees 65% new oak, and his traditional method sparkling wines also showed well, with his Gruner Veltliner and Riesling exhibiting marked intensity of flavour.

Lednice Chateau - a 'must see'

While the spectacular blossom in spring of extensive almond orchards near Hustopece and the quaint village of nearby Kravi Hora, with its multiple wine cellars, are worth a visit, two must-sees in southern Moravia are the Lednice Chateau and the medieval town of Znojmo.

Both are UNESCO World Heritage sites. The former has the largest landscaped gardens in the world, while the latter has a warren of fourteenth century tunnels beneath it, not to mention the celebrated Church of St Nicholas and the stunning eleventh century Rotunda of St Catherine. A former monastery houses the splendid Enoteka, with its wonderfully varied selection of 120 Czech wines for tasting.

From there, it is a three-hour drive north-west to Central Bohemia and the historic town of Kutna Hora, another UNESCO World Heritage site that boasts two cathedrals. One of them, the Church of St Barbara, is regarded as one of the most beautiful examples of Gothic architecture in Europe.

Kutna Hora Wine Cellars winemaker Lukas Rudolfsky

The town is also home to one of Czechia’s best producers, Kutna Hora Wine Cellars. Lukas Rudolfsky, the charismatic piano-playing owner-winemaker of the only biodynamically-certified winery in Czechia, grows nine varieties on 43 hectares of gneiss, calcareous and clay soils.

Vinifying in an old Ursuline convent, Rudolfsky fashions a range of superb wines, including a fresh and mineral Muscat Ottonel, a delightful Pinot Gris and Chardonnay blend, an Ancestrale method (single fermentation) sparkling Riesling, a Rhine Riesling still wine and an orange wine.

The pick was his top Pinot Noir 2022 label, with its gloriously fresh raspberry fruit, soft tannins and low abv of 12%. Structure comes from 30% new oak. It was the best red wine I tasted in Czechia.

Lobkowicz Winery cellar master Karel Stejskal

Another Bohemian producer that impressed was the Lobkowicz Winery in the town of Roudnice. Cellar master Karel Stejskal makes some excellent Pinot Blanc and Riesling from organically-farmed vines as well as a cross of Saint Laurent and Blaufrankisch named Fratava. Spicy, with polished tannins, it has appealing blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. As a Czech creation, it is symbolic of how the country’s wine industry is looking forward and producing characterful wines of quality.

Noemia: a great Argentine Malbec

A rare visit to taste with Hans Vinding-Diers at Bodega Noemía

Hans Vinding-Diers is a maverick winemaker who can sniff out great terroir as second nature. But he had never seen a place as unique before as this little patch of Patagonia where Bodega Noemía is sited – a remote corner of the world where you can grow great Pinot and also great Cabernet, Malbec, Semillon, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. And there is a tiny vineyard from 1932 where own rootstock Malbec can be turned into one the great wines of the world. Geoffrey Dean travelled to the tip of Argentina to get a rare audience with Vinding-Diers, to hear the remarkable story of how the wines got off the ground and why the wines of Bodega Noemía de Patagonia are so special.

9th May 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

Like his celebrated father Peter, Hans Vinding-Diers is both a globe-trotting winemaker of note and natural story-teller. And his tale of how his newly-acquired Patagonian winery, Bodega Noemía, got a lucky break is a lovely one. It was the London Wine Fair of 2003, where he had brought with him from Argentina an unlabelled bottle of the first vintage (2001) of his flagship Malbec. It was a decision that had momentous consequences.

"She had the dosh. I blew it all on the barrels.” Hans Vinding Diers, Bodega Noemía de Patagonia, 2025

Hans Vinding Diers

“I only took it because my partner suggested it,” Vinding-Diers recalls as, some 21 years later, we walked through his vines near the village of Mainqué in the Río Negro province, 1000 or so kilometres south-west of Buenos Aires. Countess Noemi Cinzano was both his romantic and business partner of the time, the pair having founded the winery.

“2001 was the first vintage, and the year I also met Noemi,” Vinding-Diers says. “So we decided to make a company and name it after her: Bodega Noemía de Patagonia – 51% owned by her, and 49% by me. She had the dosh. I blew it all on the barrels.”

Not that the barrels were the making of the wine. Ungrafted vines planted in 1932 producing superlative fruit from an exceptional terroir were. More on them in due course but first back to what happened at the London Wine Fair in 2003.

“I bump into Stephen Spurrier, who knew my father and asks what bottle I’d got there,” he adds.

“So he brings me to David Gleave on the Liberty stand. Both of them drink my wine and I can see their reaction in their eyes. At the same time, two of the best sommeliers at that time walk past - from Aubergine and the Gavroche. They taste the wine and say they want it on their list. David then asks me how much of it I’d made and that he wants it all. Then to name my price. I come out with a figure of £56, and tell him I’ll only give him 85% of the wine. All this in 15 minutes - incredible.”

A good story got even better in the following months when Spurrier gave the Noemía 2001 five stars in Decanter, and Wine Spectator awarded it 94 points.

“This was in 2003 when 90 points was 90 points and Argentina wasn’t on the map,” says Vinding-Diers. “Only Catena got that kind of points. So that was extraordinary… and it just went boom from there. It was a true love story which still lives on. Noemi and I had a breakup but she sold me the winery in 2018 on very good terms. Now it’s my wife Belén who is at the heart of the winery. Spurrier had always had that flair – he knew where to scratch and find, and it wasn’t because we were family friends. He was dead serious about it. ‘It’s amazing what you're doing – pre-phylloxera, original rootstock.... do you realise?’ he asked me. I replied ‘yes I do realise.’ ”

Remarkable viticulture

Where it all started - the 1.2ha Noemía vineyard

In the past two decades, Noemía has gone on to produce what are some of the greatest wines in Argentina, and not just from Malbec. Its Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon are world-class, while the estate’s A Lisa label, a more affordable Malbec (at £35 with the flagship Noemía retailing at £140-160) is an outstanding ‘village’ wine, as Vinding-Diers puts it. “Then, you go on to the cru vineyards,” he chuckles. Named after his grandmother, A Lisa makes up two thirds of his annual production of 90,000 bottles. Just 2,000 bottles of the flagship Noemía label are produced - from its 1.5 hectare plot.

It is something of a miracle that viticulture is remotely feasible in this sun-drenched valley that receives only seven inches of rain a year, and is bordered by semi-desert terrain to the north and south. What makes grape-growing possible is the network of canals that run off the Negro river, whose source is in the Andes.

“All that irrigation is 100% gravity – there’s a drop of one metre every 10km,” adds Vinding-Diers, revealing he employs flood irrigation. “The valley goes east-west, and this water travels around 550 km from the Andes. It’s just translating the mountains to this place, and the vine gets it, captures it from minerally-charged water. This is extraordinary. I’ve made wine around the world and never seen anything like this… a place where you can grow great Pinot and also great Cabernet, Malbec, Semillon, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s very clean and pristine here – no pollution.”

Disease pressure is almost non-existent with no downy and powdery mildew to worry about, and humidity very low.

“No sulphur or copper needs spraying, and there’s not much trunk disease,” claims Vinding-Diers. “We might get deficiencies but we don't get diseases, which is incredible. Very little hail and no frost. The Humberto Canale vineyards down by the river are 120 years old, and our oldest are 93 years old. Basically, everyone in the valley is on own rootstock for the original vines, which make up about 1,000 hectares of the 1200 under vine.”

"My vineyard is my mistress..."

The bodega sits on alluvial soils both for the 1.5h Noemia plot (planted in 1930) and the other Malbec one of 4.5h, named J.Alberto after Noemi Cinzano’s father (and planted in 1955).

“Here on the Noemía plot, there's a bit more clay, but throughout we have gravel, sand and silt,” reveals Vinding-Diers. “It’s a beautiful combination, especially as water filters through with enough staying. So it’s wonderful - I’m very happy about this soil. This is a bit heavier than J Alberto, so it produces larger, more ample wines than J.Alberto, which is a bit leaner, more austere.”

With ideal soils and climate, Vinding-Diers farmed organically from the outset, as well as in an environmentally sensitive manner, which he is convinced affects the quality of the grapes. As not just winemaker but also viticulturist, he talks of ‘my intimate relationship’ with his vineyard.

“That’s what it’s all about - my vineyard is my mistress,” he muses. “Truly, I’m being very serious. It’s something spiritual. The density of the old vines is 3,000 to 3,500 per hectare, and I try to give them the minimal amount of water to survive. So I flood irrigate only five times per year, although it’s more like a trickle than a flood. We don’t give a damn about quantity as we’re all about quality. Yield is 25 to 30hl/ha which is low but that’s what we want.”

A wide diurnal range, with night-time temperatures in summer dropping into single figures, helps the old vines to retain their acidity. As a result, Vinding-Diers says he never has to add any tartaric acid to his Noemía or J.Alberto labels.

“When we harvest, we have pHs of 3.2 or 3.3, which is very low for Argentina. By the end of fermentation, it’s 3.4 to 3.6 max with a TA of 6.5 and abv of 13.5%, which is a dream.”

One viticultural practice with vine training that Vinding-Diers introduced four years ago for his prized Noemía parcel has had what he calls "amazing results". The apex of the vines is allowed to reach 2.10m in height rather than 1.70m. “Where you don't cut the apex off is something I’ve seen some producers do in Alsace and Burgundy,” he adds.

“I guess it is a response to the climate change we are experiencing these last years. We find that our pHs are much lower, the acidity is higher, the sugars don’t spike and the polyphenols also mature very slowly. I believe personally from our winery data and intuition that the vine is not stressed because of that particular way of training it. It’s a controlled wilderness and the plant auto-regulates as the more you touch her the more she stresses. And if she’s stressed, there’s very little reserves left and that’s when you get these sugar peaks and unbalanced results.”

Rows of strategically-planted poplars, ranging in age from 15 to 100 years, act as excellent windbreaks against the prevailing Patagonian south-westerlies. What wind does get through is a useful coolant on hot summer days when temperatures can exceed 40°C.

“The poplars are close to the vines but don’t take any nutrients from them as I give the poplars food in the form of compost and water,” Hans said. “The vines are thick and gnarly but wonderfully healthy-looking with very good polyphenols. They are loved for sure. We do only very basic shoot-thinning and don’t green harvest.”

Winemaking at Bodega Noemía de Patagonia

Minimal intervention in the vineyards is followed by careful vinification.

“After hand-picking fruit and destemming it, we pump over only to activate the yeasts, and we do very little extraction as we don’t need to,” says Vinding-Diers. “The tannins are perfectly ripe and our colours are amazing because of the thermal amplitude. We don’t do fermentation control – we don’t have a cooling system – and we open windows at night and we let the ferments go as they wish in order to let the yeasts express themselves truly. Our production is small, and so are our tanks, so they never really generate too much heat. We ferment in old wooden vessels, cement vessels and stainless steel.”

Elevage is in top-quality 600-litre French demi-muids but, significantly, only A Lisa gets any new oak (just 5% for 8-10 months). So keen is Vinding-Diers to allow the fullest possible fruit expression that his flagship Noemía, although it spends 24 months in oak, sees a combination of second, third and even fourth fill. It also spends 12 months in bottle before release, as does J.Alberto (with 12 months in oak).

Availability

Overseas demand for the labels is such that 85% of production is exported, although the Pinot Noir is held back for domestic sales only. Like the Cabernet (whose label is Due, the Italian for ‘two’), it’s only made in exceptional years, the most recent being 2021 and 2024. The A Lisa has been produced every year since 2004, and the J.Alberto every year since 2003.

There is, Vinding-Diers says, no number one export market, although James Doidge MW, managing director of leading UK importer, the Wine Treasury, takes as much as 15% of output to satisfy keen UK demand, including all labels apart from the Pinot. That pleases Vinding-Diers, who is half-British through his mother, and has English as a first language, having been born in South Africa where his Danish father began his winemaking career.

Ironically, Vinding-Diers, while fluent in Spanish and French, speaks little Danish even though he has a Danish passport. His young son, Juan Andreas, has dual Danish-Argentinian citizenship, while wife Belén is an Argentine national.

“Belén does all the Argentine domestic sales, and I do all the international,” he says. “We personally talk to our clients which makes a huge difference. The admin and accounts we do. There are not many true vignerons and sole owners in Argentina. You count them on one hand.”

It is another reason why the wines of Bodega Noemía de Patagonia are so special.

How were the new wines tasting?

Bodega Noemía, A Lisa 2023

90% Malbec, 9% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 13% abv, RRP £35.

Fermented and aged largely in stainless steel (with 5% new oak and 5% used oak). Deep purple with aromas of spice, violet and rose petals. Intense, exuberant red and black fruit with notes of bitter cherry and blackcurrant. Velvety texture with tight-knit acidity, soft tannins and a lengthy finish.

Bodega Noemía, J.Alberto 2022

95% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 13% abv, RRP £55.

Massale field blend selection from single vineyard planted on own roots in 1955. Elevage in second and third fill French oak (two thirds), with a third in cement. Inky colour with fragrant aromas of rosemary, creme de cassis and coffee. Glorious black fruit on the palate with saline backbone, invigorating freshness and smoky graphite minerality. Silky tannins and persistent length.

Bodega Noemía, “Noemía” 2022

100% Malbec, 13.5% abv, £160.

One of Argentina’s greatest Malbecs from 1932 vines on own roots. In contrast to altitude Argentinian Malbec, this is a latitude wine of fluvial origins, exhibiting minerality from Andean river water as well as a touch of salinity. A very elegant, harmonious wine with wild strawberry aromas and floral violet notes, as well as gloriously intense red fruit, blueberry, black cherry and balsamic hints. Such notable freshness and fine-grained powdery tannins, as well as a supremely long finish. Noemía Malbecs are more Old World in style than higher altitude ones from Mendoza and Salta, being lower in alcohol, arguably more complex and less in-your-face. Mendoza tends to be more herbal, with massive intensity, and Salta spicier.

* You can find out more about Bodega Noemía de Patagonia at its website here.

Related Articles

How Argentina’s La Celia Heritage Malbec lets terroir do the talking

How Catena’s terroir of Malbec study ‘proves that terroir exists’

Hans Vinding-Diers is driving Patagonia with Bodega Noemia

The Buyer trip: Putting Patagonia on Argentina’s wine map

How Argentina’s La Celia Heritage Malbec lets terroir do the talking

How Catena’s terroir of Malbec study ‘proves that terroir exists’

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Grand Cercle 2024 en primeur tasting

Geoffrey Dean at Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux's 2024 en primeur

Thirty of the 119 celebrated Bordeaux chateaux that make up the Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux held an En Primeur tasting of the latest 2024 vintage at the Dilly, London last month - giving wine buyers a first hand look at wines which have been very much in the press this last fortnight. 2024 Bordeaux was a tricky growing season as Geoffrey Dean discovered talking to producers, and yields were down but the end results are wines that are light, fleshy, modest in alcohol, made for early drinking and competitively priced.

7th May 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

What was clear after the primeurs tasting of the 2024 vintage of the Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux was that the wines are, as a general rule, light, fleshy and quite simple but with soft tannins, plenty of freshness and appealing fruit. Above all, and this will really please those who harp back to the days of lower alcohol levels, most of the wines were under 14% with some even under 13%. They are for early drinking, and should be competitively priced.

The downside is low yields, which were largely the result of rampant downy mildew, which struck as early as April in some vineyards after persistent spring rain. According to Jean-François Quenin, owner of Château de Pressac and Château Tour de Pressac in Saint-Émilion, some growers lost half or up to 90% of their crop.

"You cannot get a Ferrari for the price of a Peugeot.” Jean-Francois Quenin

“We had three periods of different weather,” he told The Buyer. “Before June, we had a year’s rainfall in six months, so mildew was a problem. A lot of people had it. We had sun and dry conditions in the middle of July until the end of August, although there was hail damage in the north of Pomerol in August. Then, for the harvest, it started to rain. So we had to pick a little earlier than we’d have liked."

"It was quite a difficult vintage – we had to sort the grapes very carefully as we had some rotten ones. However, the result is better than expected – a little lighter than normal, but fresh, fruity and no vegetal green aromas, which we were anxious about. But we had none at all.”

Benjamin Barreau of La Dauphine - 70% down in production

Benjamon Barreau of La Dauphine

Quenin was one of many who had to chaptalise – in his case for the first time in 20 years – but his own yields were almost 40hl/ha, not far off a normal return. Conversely, Château La Cardonne’s was down to 26hl/ha, while Benjamin Barreau of Château de La Dauphine revealed their typical annual production of 100,000 bottles was down to 30,000. “It will make an easy wine to drink, being lighter and less concentrated,” he said.

Guy Meslin of Laroze - The 2024s have elegant tannins and invigorating freshness

Talking to the growers and winemakers at the tasting revealed that they had all been very careful not to extract too much for fear of tannins that were not fully ripe, with some even being harsh. Punchdowns were consequently avoided in the main. All those I spoke to stressed they had employed the strictest selection of berries. Guy Meslin of Château Laroze declared “we have a very precise way to separate the berries - with a mechanical device which is better than optical sorting equipment.”

Meslin, who said they did not chaptalise at Laroze, professed they lost quite a bit of volume to downy mildew but more to ‘millanderage’ or ‘hens and chicks’, when bunches contain berries of different size and maturity. The 2024s nevertheless had elegant tannins and invigorating freshness. The 2019 vintage, he poured alomgside the 2024, showed very well, as might be expected of such a classic vintage.

Tariffs and prices

The potential effect of Trump’s tariffs was, unsurprisingly, a hot topic of conversation. Quenin revealed that the CIVB is expecting a decrease in sales of 20-30% to the USA on the back of the proposed tariffs. “For me, it’s actually better if the price goes up,” mused Quenin, who exports 10-15% of his production to the States. “I think that in the US my Tour de Pressac is not expensive enough as many Americans think the wine can’t be that good at $40. So if my wine goes up to $50, it may help me to sell more. But at the lower price points, I appreciate any increase could be a problem for our producers in America.”

As fas as prices are concerned for the UK market, Quenin does not feel they can go down much further. “Last year, prices went down a lot,” he continued, “so I am not sure they can go down again as people are losing money. In Bordeaux, we have taken out 20-30% of the vines in the last two years – mostly for entry level wines. We are selling those for less than half the cost of production, so people are suffering a lot. If people are obliged to reduce the price, then the quality will be reduced. Customers will get what they pay for. You cannot get a Ferrari for the price of a Peugeot.”

Pierre Rebaud of Siaurac - producers had to roll with the punches

Pierre Rebaud of Château Siaurac who, like Quenin, chaptalised in order to gain a degree of alcohol, was justifiably pleased with his 2024, which came in at 13.5% abv. “We lost a large part of the Merlot, which makes up only 53% of the blend when normally 80%. We traditionally use 30% new oak normally, but none in ’24. The structure is lighter but fresh. It’s for drinking within 5-6 years, not like the 2019 which is best drunk when 20 years old. I like the style, although it’s not the normal estate style. We got 33 hl/ha compared to 42-45 normally.”

How long the 2024s will age was a moot point. Julie Metifet of Clos Puy Arnaud thinks hers are best drunk immediately - within 3 years - while Pierre Delage, director-general of Lanessan, effectively concurred, saying that his 2024 “will be easy to drink soon.” At 12.5% abv, it is quite light in colour with supple tannins, the winemaking team having been very careful not to over-extract. As for the 2019, Delage gushed that “I love it and it is almost ready to drink.”

David Eads of Clos Dubreuil

David Eads, the American CEO of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru estate, Clos Dubreuil, declared he was “cautiously optimistic’ about his new winemaker Joel Elissalde’s first vintage (2024). “We harvested late in mid October, with the rain being quite scary in harvest,” he admitted, “but one of Joel’s sayings is that ‘We play to win, not not lose.’ The body and fruit was what we wanted to get out of the harvest.” The wine certainly showed more concentration than some other wines, which were a bit fleshy.

While praising his Chardonnay 2024 as “insanely good”, Eads felt his 2014 vintage was not dissimilar to the 2024. “Jeroboams have the 2014 in stock, and really liked it. It works better for a British palate, being classic in style,” he said, adding he considered Trump’s tariffs to be foolish. “But I don't think they will affect sales that much. American wines have such a high price tag, and I believe an extra 20% on French wines won’t scare people off.”

Bart de Winne, the plain-speaking Belgian export manager of organic producer, Château La Marzelle, was another who spoke favourably of the 2024s. “We’re pretty comfortable with the results in what was a complicated vintage,” he said. “We benefited from farming biodynamically - we gain our certification in two years. Maturation is in 80% new French oak for our first wine, with 20% in terracotta amphorae. All the Cab Franc goes into amphorae as it helps us develop its aromatic capacity. We used more Merlot (80%) and less Cab Franc (15%) than we normally do. We’re looking for elegance and silkiness. We only sell small quantities to the US, and got a palate in there before Trump was elected.”

Anthony Crameri

Anthony Crameri, export manager of the De Amour group which owns five Bordeaux châteaux, including Grand Cru Classé Saint-Emilion estates, Tour Baladoz and La Croizille, was brutally frank. “2024 is a small bad vintage,” he sighed. “The Merlots were very, very complicated. I’m quite happy with the Cabernets but very disappointed with the Merlot. There is a lack of structure in middle palate, which is quite weak; a good nose but a short finish. We had to do a lot of treatments in the vineyards against downy mildew. We didn’t have to chaptalise but the alcohol level is low.”

Gallo's Luxury Portfolio

Taste of luxury: Geoffrey Dean at Gallo's luxury portfolio tasting

Although Orin Swift and Rombauer represents almost 80% of Gallo's premium revenue there are eight other labels that demand attention. Geoffrey Dean tastes through the new vintages including wines from the three recently acquired Californian wineries – Rombauer, Denner and the white wine-only producer Massican – and hears from Edouard Baijot MW, Gallo’s director of luxury international about the company’s multi-channel approach, the focus on London and why he is optimistic about what 2025 has in store, despite the many challenges.

13th April 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

Gallo's luxury portfolio tasting in London in late March underlined what a wide range of premium and icon Californian wines it presides over. Double-digit growth of the US company’s luxury portfolio in each of the previous five years was restricted to 7% in 2024, but that still represented good progress given the challenges facing the wine industry as a whole.

Edouard Baijot MW, Gallo’s director of luxury international, who flew in from his base in France, pointed to worldwide production of wine exceeding demand by 10% in 2023.

“While we were aware that distributors were holding inventory, it became evident that retailers, independent sellers, restaurants and even end-consumers were also overstocked, resulting in reduced transaction volumes,” he said.

Baijot, though, is hopeful of a surge in growth in 2025 thanks to the recent acquisition of three Californian wineries of exceptional quality: Denner Vineyards, Rombauer Vineyards and Massican. The latter, since its founding in 2009, is that rarity in California – a white wine-only producer. This impressive triumvirate was part of a ten-strong bevvy of wineries represented at the tasting where over 40 wines from Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Santa Lucia Highlands, the Sierra Foothills and Santa Maria Valley were shown.

Denner, the boutique Paso Robles winery, and Massican, the Carneros producer, had not been available before to the UK trade to taste. Gallo’s marketing manager for the luxury portfolio, Fabianne Jones, said she had received ‘positive’ feedback from the trade for Denner during the tasting, although its UK allocation this year will be small – 60 cases for the on-trade and private clients.

“The idea is to show the diversity of our luxury portfolio to the local trade,” Baijot declared. “When you think about Gallo, a lot of people don't necessarily consider the luxury side of the business which is now more and more important as the family began to invest in luxury estates 20 years ago with the acquisition of Louis M. Martini in 2002.”

As it is a family-owned concern, Gallo does not release its accounts but Baijot did reveal its luxury business impacts “significantly” on revenue with a growing share year on year.

For Baijot, all channels are as important as each other. “We have a multi-channel approach – namely not to put all brands in the same channels,” he added. “Pahlmeyer, for example, is more for private clients. It is sold on allocation in small volumes, so is a bit more exclusive. Massican or The Language of Yes Syrah or Grenache labels are 100% dedicated for sommeliers, as the price is perfect for by-the-glass. It all depends on consumer segmentation: it’s important to talk to every single channel and every consumer, and to show our partners the diversity of California – its varieties, climate and style, and also price as we have different price positioning.”

“London is a big focus but we try to be national and have nice distribution. We don't want to be everywhere but at the right places. We focus on 20-25 markets for luxury full stop, where we know we have the potential appropriate partners.”

The portfolio consists of Massican, Talbott, Denner, Language of Yes, Rombauer, Louis M. Martini, Orin Swift, J Vineyards, Pahlmeyer and its second label, Jayson. The largest volume brands are Orin Swift and Rombauer, which represent almost 80% of Gallo’s luxury revenue, followed by Louis M. Martini and Pahlmeyer.

Orin Swift

As many as ten Orin Swift labels were available for tasting. The winery was founded in 1998 by celebrated winemaker Dave Phinney, who named it after his father’s middle name, Orin, and his mother’s maiden name, Swift. Artistic, often wacky labels are his watchword, with a couple worth highlighting.

The Papillon Napa Valley Red Wine 2020 (£65 RSP), features a weathered farm hand, with the letters making up Papillon ('butterly' in French) on eight fingers. A Bordeaux blend, it is, as befitting the label, delicate yet brawny, and nuanced yet bold. The Mercury Head Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (£107 RSP) has no front label but an old Mercury dime embedded in the bottle. These were minted between 1916 and 1945, and have rare value. The UK receives only 40 cases per annum of both the Papillon and Mercury Head labels.

Rombauer Vineyards

Rombauer Vineyards was founded in 1980 by former airline pilot Koerner Rombauer and wife Joan. Its Carneros Chardonnay has long been acclaimed as one of America’s best, and the 2022 (£45 RSP) is rich and creamy, having been lees-stirred every two weeks and put through full malolactic fermentation. Vibrant freshness is also apparent from this cool climate site with intense citrus fruit. Rombauer’s El Dorado Zinfandel 2021 (£51 RSP) is a pure expression of Californian Zin – concentrated and fruit-forward with classic brambly notes and an earthy character with spiciness.

Talbott Vineyards

Talbott Vineyards is located at the base of the Santa Lucia Highlands, one of the coolest wine-producing climates in California. Its Sleepy Hollow vineyard is widely regarded in America as a California Grand Cru Chardonnay site, being cooled by extended morning fog and reliable maritime winds. A longer growing season – harvest is 2-3 weeks later than Napa or Sonoma – produces rich, complex Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit that has spectacular acidity. Founder Robb Talbott Jr says both wines “took their inspiration from Burgundy but had their roots in California’s soils.” Each showed superbly with a real sense of place.

Massican

So too did the three Massican whites from the 2023 vintage – the Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (£55 RSP), the Gemina (£40, a blend of Greco and Falanghina) and the Annia (£35, a blend of Ribolla Gialla, Friulano and Chardonnay). “If sommeliers are looking for something totally different, then these wines are perfect,” Baijot mused.

Denner Vineyards

Denner Vineyards’ three reds from the 2021 vintage were among the stars of the show – the Ditch Digger (a GSM blend), the Dirt Worshipper (85% Syrah with Viognier, Petit Verdot and Tannat making up the balance) and Mother of Exiles (a Bordeaux blend). Calcareous clay, organically-farmed vineyards soaring to 1,000 feet produce wines of power, finesse and balance. A wide diurnal range gives them freshness. Previously, all Denner’s wines were sold direct-to-consumer.

“International exposure has been quite limited as a result, so that’s why we’re excited to show the wine today,” Baijot said.

Tasting through the Gallo luxury portfolio, London's Mandarin Oriental, March 24, 2025

Louis M. Martini

For Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, the wines of Louis M. Martini offered exceptional quality at varying price points, ranging from £29 DPD to three figures. The winery is a true Cabernet specialist, 90% of its production being from the grape. Its Monte Rosso Vineyard, at 300m in the Mayacamas Mountains, contains some of California’s oldest vines which produce some of the state’s most acclaimed Cabernet. The winery’s flagship label - Lot No 1 - comprises fruit from prime sites including Stagecoach, Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain, Stags Leap and Oakville. The 2013, 2015, 2017 and 2018 vintages of it were available for tasting, with the much-lauded 2013 priced at £253 DPD. Power, depth and intensity, yet polish and elegance, are its watchwords.

Louis M. Martini also produces some outstanding Zinfandel from 19th century vines. Planted in 1893 in the Monte Rosso Vineyard, these gnarled, ungrafted vines yield only 1.5 to 3 tons per acre but fruit with deep concentration, elegance and dusty spice. The 2018 vintage offered real value at £43 DPD.

Pahlmeyer

Napa Valley producer, Pahlmeyer, likewise impressed with its Proprietary Red 2018 & 2019 Bordeaux blend vintages. Opulence and structure mark both these wines, which have very long ageing potential. As winemaker, Katie Vogts, points out: “In Napa, you’re focussing on the long-term.” The Pahlmeyer Chardonnay 2020 (£66 DPD), some of whose fruit came from Haynes Vineyard vines planted in 1967, has richness yet freshness with an enticing saline finish.

To cap off a splendid tasting, the J Vineyards Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from 2022 and 2023 in the Russian River Valley offered terrific value at £23 and £27 DPD respectively. Nicole Hitchcock, head winemaker since 2015, has skilfully crafted the Pinot from 40 individual small lots. Dark cherry, plum and raspberry notes, with hints of earth and clove, are evident. Her Chardonnay’s honeysuckle, citrus and lemon peel notes were a delight.

Gallo is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.

Visit to Sicily & Pantelleria

Geoffrey Dean on Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé and other Sicilian finds

In his latest report from Sicily Geoffrey Dean travels to the remote, windy island of Pantelleria to discover how Donnafugata makes the iconic Ben Ryé – one of the world’s top sweet wines, made from Zibibbo. He then makes his way to the Camporeale and Monreale regions where Candido and Feudo Disisa are both making extraordinary wines from the Perricone grape. Lastly he investigates the regionwide IGT Siciliana label and highlights wines from Dei Principi di Spadafora and Gruppo Italiani Vini’s Tenuta Rapitala that are using this denomination to good effect.

1st April 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

When you get off the light plane that brings you to Pantelleria from Sicily 100km away, it is possible to spot a peak named Cap Bon 70km to the west across the Mediterranean if it is clear. It is part of the Tunisian coastline, rendering Africa closer than Europe to the 83-square kilometre volcanic island that is part of Italy (and one of the country’s 21 national parks). With a permanent population of around 5,000, which swells to 20,000 in the tourist season, Pantelleria is a veritable outpost, but home to one of the great sweet wines of the world - Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé.

The first vintage of this iconic Passito di Pantelleria, which has typically around 200g/l residual sugar, was in 1989 when Donnafugata’s owners, the Rallo family, christened it not with an Italian name but the Arabic words, Ben Ryé, which translates as ‘son of the wind.’ It was a doubly symbolic decision for the island is a permanently windy one, and the only grape permitted under its DOC rules is Zibibbo, which is thought to derive from the Arabic word for raisin, ‘zabib.’ And ‘apassimento’ – when grapes are left on mats to dry until they shrivel up into raisins – is the first process by which Ben Ryé is made.

One four-pronged 80-year old Zibibbo vine would produce only one 75cl bottle of Ben Ryé

Some of the vines of Zibibbo, aka Muscat of Alexandria, are as much as 120-years old in Donnafugata’s Pantelleria vineyards. Others are 50 to 80 years-old, and the viticultural team never grub any up, replanting only when vines die off. The wind obliges low-trained bush vines, for if they were any higher, flowering would not take place. With only 450mm rain per annum, Zibibbo is a well-chosen variety as it is well-adapted to drought, and irrigation is only permitted for young replanted vines. Vines of all ages benefit from recurring morning dew, the reason why the island is so green.

Vines are planted from 20 metres above sea level to 400 metres, and to a density of 2,500 per hectare, normally yielding four tons of fruit. If yields are low in certain years, Donnafugata will buy in grapes from some of the 300 growers on Pantelleria. Salvatore Barraco, their head of viticulture on the island, revealed 4kg of fruit is needed to make one litre of Ben Ryé.

One four-pronged 80-year old vine I photographed would, therefore, produce only a couple of 37cl bottles of Ben Ryé. This was in one of the prime sites for the wine – Punta Karace – on very steep terraces bordered by drystone walls, of which Donnafugata has 40km in its 68 hectares under vine. Obsidian and basalt volcanic soils predominate here, giving mineral characters.

Jose Rallo believes the winds that sweep constantly around the grape clusters bring real benefits, although to be able to withstand them, the vines must be cultivated in hollows that make them grow horizontally. This is known as ‘alberello pantesco’, which was recognised in 2014 by UNESCO as ‘intangible cultural heritage of humanity – a highly sustainable and creative agricultural practice.’

For Rallo, “the island’s winds bring with them a profusion of fragrances so powerful you can touch them.” Certainly, Ben Ryé is intensely aromatic - with balsamic scents of Mediterranean scrub and sweet notes of honey and fresh figs, as well as hints of citrus zest and a touch of salinity. On the palate, apricot, marmalade and mint notes delight.

Donnafugata’s production extends well beyond Pantelleria, for they make 30 labels in total from grapes grown all over Sicily. Liberty Wines imports a good number of them into the UK. As part of a laudable drive to lower carbon footprint, the estate is reducing its 75cl bottle weights from 550g to 400g in 12 of its labels, and using 90% recycled Sicilian glass. Other leading Sicilian wineries such as Planeta are following suit.

Candido winery in the Camporeale region

While farming organically on Pantelleria is too impractical for Donnafugata, the company does do so in other parts of Sicily. So too does the Candido winery in the Camporeale region in the west of the island, which is looking for a UK importer. Its most impressive wine was Vomere d’Oro 2021, IGP Terre Siciliane, made from the Perricone grape that, following recent DNA profiling, may well have a parent-offspring relationship with Sangiovese. Certainly, it shared the same appealing cherry notes as well as approachable tannins.

Feudo Disisa in Monreale DOC

Likewise, Feudo Disisa, in the neighbouring DOC of Monreale, whose wines are imported by Leytons, make an excellent Perricone Granmassenti 2020. Mario Di Lorenzo, whose family acquired the estate in 1867, is a big fan of the varietal. “It’s from this area, and is usually blended with Nero d’Avola,” he said, “but from 2010, markets searched for something different and with typicity. It’s less easy than Nero d’Avola to produce as it matures very late but has more personality.”

That said, Feudo Disisa’s Vuaria Nero D’Avola 2020 was a very fine example of the varietal. From low-yielding 28-year old vines, and only made in the best vintages, this was meaty with sweet chocolate notes. Also noteworthy were Feudo Disisa’s traditional method sparkling wines – Rene 2017 DOC Sicilia (100% Chardonnay, 60 months on the lees; zero dosage) - and its Lu Bancu Cataratto 2022, DOC Monreale. “We used to blend the Cataratto with Insolia but I think very interesting wine can be made from it,” Di Lorenzo declared.

Francesco & Enrica Spadafora

Dei Principi di Spadafora winery in Monreale DOC

Two white grapes long associated with Sicily – Grillo and Chardonnay – find superb expressions at the Dei Principi di Spadafora winery, also in Monreale. Francesco Spadafora, part of a noble landowning family whose older cousin is a titled prince, is a delightful host at his Virzi estate, which has stunning views over 100 hectares of vines that rise to 450 metres. He makes 12,500 cases a year of premium wines that include some beautifully balanced Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero D’Avola as well as a traditional method bubbly (from Grillo) named Enrica after his daughter, who handles sales.

Spadafora vineyards

Spadafora likes to keep production low by dry-farming on soils that are mainly sandy with clay and a little limestone. The fruit for his outstanding Sole dei Padre Syrah 2008, which is farmed organically, came from his highest, oldest and lowest-yielding vineyard (only 0.8kg grapes per vine). Thanks to winds he describes as ‘omnipresent’ as well as altitude, he does not need to add any acid to his reds, which possess notable freshness. He also largely eschews new oak, letting his fruit and terroir express themselves in what is an outstanding range of wines that are labelled with the region-wide Terre Siciliane IGT designation.

Tenuta Rapitala in Camporeale

What fruit Spadafora does not vinify is sold to local cooperatives and wine giant, Gruppo Italiani Vini’s Tenuta Rapitala. This is located in Camporeale, where it has 176 hectares under vine, mostly in the Alcamo area on rolling hills between 300 and 600 metres. Many of the vineyards are farmed organically.

It makes 600,000 bottles per annum of mid-market or premium wines under the Tenuta Rapitala label, and another 400,000 under the plain Rapitala label that is sold in supermarkets. The range of the former is imported by Matthew Clark, with a couple of personal favourites being the Hugonis 2020 (a 50:50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d’Avola) and the sweet Cielo d’Alamo (60% Cataratto, 40% Sauvignon Blanc; 160g/l RS).

Armit Tasting, London, March 2025

State of the market: Fleming and Clerc speak out at Armit tasting

In just over five years since joining Armit Wines, MD Brett Fleming has helped meld the company into a formidable outfit, with ambitions to raise the bar ever higher. With portfolio director Nicolas Clerc MS at his right hand, he used the company’s annual portfolio tasting to speak out about his strategies to help make Armit become “the premium fine wine supplier into the UK market” – negotiating direct allocations and exclusive distributions, building long-term partnerships and collaborative strategies, finding niches in the by-the-glass category and working out ways in which to clear the numerous hurdles that the current trading climate and government are putting in his way. Geoffrey Dean reports and picks out producers whose wines shone particularly brightly on the day.

21st March 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

The annual Armit Wines portfolio trade tasting did not disappoint. The importer’s renowned Italian list showed as regally as the imposing surrounds of One Great George Street, backed up by a fine, varied selection of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne.

Throw in a brilliant new addition from Slovenia, ten other excellent Old World producers, as well as several fine New World wineries, and you had a collection to satisfy the most demanding of on-trade buyers and private clients. For the company has long cherished the latter’s custom, which originally underpinned John Armit’s successful launch before the trade came on board later.

Fleming on trade pressure

Presiding proudly over the tasting was Armit’s managing director, Brett Fleming, who had every justification in beginning with a withering tirade against government policy towards the drinks trade.

“We are under unprecedented pressure in the trade – from legislation, tax and the changing climate – and there doesn't seem to be an understanding from government about the impact of all that,” he said. “The government aren't listening. We’ve got the EPR [Extended Producer Responsibility] coming, which is going to add further challenges to the industry, and the way that has been communicated is woeful. If we had a private enterprise acting in the way that EPR has been communicated, that company would be bust.”

“Businesses have to plan for this but we can’t plan for something that is so muddled. The government just don't seem to care or understand that lives, mortgages and families are at risk because of their policies. They say it’s ‘a Tory tax’ but they have the power to repeal it. It was supposed to simplify the taxation but it’s gone from one rate to 15 rates. I’ve had to employ staff just to administer the new taxation – it’s ludicrous.”

Fleming, though, has long been one to embrace a positive glass-half-full mantra.

“Nonetheless, I’m optimistic – we see opportunity in the premium on-trade particularly even though there’s been an exodus of wealth – notably out of London,” he continued. “There is still a lot of tourism that comes and a lot of demand. I know this as it’s quite a challenge getting a booking at some of the top restaurants because they're so busy. Good luck trying to get a place at River Cafe at the moment!”

“So it’s still buoyant in that respect, but I think everything below that is really struggling. And they’re struggling for all the same reasons that the industry is – getting staff, national insurance contributions going up, finding the people who want to put those hard yards in. We have extraordinary suppliers and I don't see that necessarily changing – at least I hope it won’t.”

Bordeaux en primeur campaign

Armit portfolio director Nicolas Clerc MS: "Nicolas is really the one who signs off what is coming into the portfolio. If it’s not good enough, we won’t bring it in,” says Fleming.

The importance of private client business to Armit Wines remains high, and Fleming is hoping Bordeaux’s en primeur pricing this year is particularly significant.

“Private clients have declined in their spend – there’s no question about that,” he added. “Is that going to change? I think the coming Bordeaux en primeur campaign will be very interesting and challenging. The Bordelais have got to understand that the margin the negociants take has to be translated through added value to the distributors that are then taking the wines. I’m not sure that message is really understood. When you're only making a 10% margin, very few businesses can survive. We’re lucky as we have a few direct allocations from chateaux which makes a huge difference. Long-term partnerships and collaborative strategies are the key rather than ad hoc ones.”

One such example is the success Armit has had with Esprit de Pavie, the separate brand within the portfolio of Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé producer, Château Pavie. Armit’s portfolio director, Nicolas Clerc MS, spotted in early 2022 that there was very little second or third label Bordeaux on wine lists by the glass as it was challenging to source.

“Nicolas felt there was a gap in that particular part of the market and, if we could get direct supply and have exclusive distribution, we could add genuine value to the restaurateur,” Fleming said. “That’s where Esprit de Pavie came in, and it has been very successful. I think we’ve done in the region of 14-16,000 bottles of it in the last three years. We also have a direct relationship with Lafleur in Pomerol and Les Carmes Haut-Brion in Pessac. The idea is that with each of the regions of Bordeaux we have a particular chateau with exclusive distribution for their second or third label. All for the premium on-trade.”

Jean-Christophe Crouzet, commercial director for Château Pavie, was present to show all of Pavie’s labels, including the grands vins from 2008, 2010 and 2012. Unsurprisingly, the 2010 (RRP £400) was the pick, although still “a baby” in Crouzet’s view. Arômes de Pavie 2017, the second label (RRP £93) likewise showed impressively.

“Arômes de Pavie has sold really well here,” Crouzet commented. “It’s from a dedicated parcel on limestone – not the leftovers of Pavie. We wanted to keep the DNA of Pavie but provide a slightly different profile and taste. The ’17 vintage was blessed as there was no frost. That year is a turning-point for us as we reduced our new oak then to 70% and are using more Cabernet Franc as it brings a lovely floral character, whereas in the past it could be leafy and herbaceous. We are very pleased with the relationship established with Armit a few years ago – it’s growing and growing, and we can't wait to see the positive results coming in the next months and years.”

The Armit Italian list, with 22 different wineries represented from all over the country, is as formidable as it is extensive with iconic performers like Bruno Giacosa from Piemonte, and Tenuta San Guido and Querciabella from Tuscany. Elisa Sesti’s 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena Riserva (RRP£96) caught the eye as did Giacomo Fenocchio’s 2020 Barolo Cannubi.

“We’re very proud of our Italian portfolio, it’s certainly the DNA of Armit,” Fleming declared. “But whilst it underpins our business and who we are, it doesn't define our business. You could just focus on Italy but I believe there’s opportunity outside of Italy that we can also benefit from. We are quite demanding of other producers so that they complement and add value to Armit’s Italian portfolio. Rockford from the Barossa is a good example and Domaine des Mapliers from Provence another. The latter’s Rosé is extraordinary.”

One new signing has already made a major impression: Vini Noüe-Marinič from Slovenia. Charismatic winemaker, Charles-Louis de Noue, a cousin of the Leflaives in Burgundy, was on hand and wowed tasters with his three whites - Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia and Chardonnay - and one red, a Refosco. “Where we are in Brda is a great region for white wine,” de Noue professed. “We have the purest fruit expression.” His superb 2021 Domaine Vicomte de Noue Marinic, easily mistaken for a top Puligny, was aged in fifth fill barrels and retails at £64.

“They are amongst the most exciting wines we’ve brought in in the last year or so,” Fleming said of de Noue’s wines. “It’s been taken on by the trade nothing short of spectacularly. We’ve got by-the-glass listings in some of the top restaurants in the country. The private clients have really embraced it as it offers value for money even at the £50-60 mark. The wines are utterly delicious. We're very lucky that Charles-Louis considered Armit but Armit is about the excellence of any producer from anywhere in the world and we're very proud to have it in the business. We have had success with their wines ahead of the timeline you would associate with any new listing.”

Armit’s sparkling wine stable featured a high quality Prosecco from Duca di Dolle as well as a trio of celebrated Champagne producers – Gimonnet & Fils, Dival-Cotel and Champagne Geoffroy. The latter’s owner-winemaker, Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, was present to show his outstanding 100% Pinot Meunier label - Tiersaudes Meunier Premier Cru 2019 (RRP£89), which spent 42 months on the lees. Farming organically, he adds no dosage to any of his labels. One of his five daughters, Sacha, is assistant winemaker.

“Jean-Baptiste has a lot of flair,” Nicolas Clerc said. “He’s a specialist in Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. His Meunier is based on 50% reserve wine - a sort of solera process though he doesn't call it that.”

Just over five years after joining Armit, Fleming has helped meld the company into a formidable outfit, but the ambitious New Zealander intends to raise the bar ever higher.

“I want Armit to become the premium fine wine supplier into the UK market,” he concluded. “And that’s a ten to fifteen-year journey. Nicolas is really the one who signs off what is coming into the portfolio. If it’s not good enough, we won’t bring it in.”

Portugal's Tejo Region

Quality and freshness: 11 wine estates driving Tejo forwards

A growing trend, set to be one of the key drivers in the on-trade this year, is the increasing quality and exposure of Portuguese table wines – especially in these cash-strapped times. This journal has long championed some of the lesser known wine regions of Portugal with Tejo in the centre of the country being one of them. To catch up on what’s new, Geoffrey Dean travelled to Tejo and visited 11 burgeoning estates – both represented in the UK and looking for distributors – with many exciting discoveries.

6th February 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

The palpable quality and freshness of the wines of the Tejo in central Portugal was well-documented by The Buyer’s Mike Turner in his comprehensive review of a London tasting last spring. After a visit to the region in September, I can but echo that praise as well as drawing attention to its big potential for wine tourism.

Another Buyer colleague, Roger Jones, first saw it in 2017 when he wrote about it after a visit, but it has upped its game since, and now that the shackles of Covid are behind us, the Tejo possesses all the ingredients to become both producer and destination par excellence.

Formerly known as the Ribatejo, the DOC – to the north-east of Lisbon, and Portugal’s oldest wine region – was rechristened the Tejo (after the name of the river that flows through it from one end to the other). Running close, and almost parallel, to the river for 150 kilometres is the N118 road after which the Tejo Wine Route 118 is named. It was established in September 2021 by regional government with the aim of promoting the region and its wines. Passing through seven municipalities – Abrantes, Constancia, Chamusca, Alpiarca, Almeirim, Salvaterra de Magos and Benavente – it features 14 producers with open doors.

On our visit, we took in eleven of them. Our first port of call, Quinta da Lapa, is one of the oldest estates in the Tejo region, having been established in 1733. Owner Silvia Canas da Costa bought it in 1990 and rebuilt the winery, which has 72 hectares under vine with an annual production of around 600,000 bottles. She exports to around 20 countries but is looking for a UK distributor for several of her 25 labels, notably the Quinta da Lapa Homenagem Grande Reserva 2018 (14% abv, €20 cellar door).

An elegant blend of five grapes –Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet – it punched well above its price point, with power and structure from 24 months in 100% new French oak balanced by fresh acidity and generous fruit. Complex, concentrated and long with firm but polished tannins, this was a standout red in an impressive range that also included a delightful traditional method sparkling wine, Quinta da Lapa Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2020 (100% Arinto, 32 months on the lees, zero dosage, pH3.16).

Another producer seeking UK representation is Quinta da Ribeirinha, a family-owned estate on clay-limestone soils with a dry Mediterranean climate. As much as 85% of its annual production of 400,000 bottles is exported, with Brazil their number 1 market. All the red blends contain Touriga Nacional, as director Rui Candido says “it is very expressive of this terroir with balsamic notes.” His orange wine, Contracena from Fernao Pires, which spent seven days on the skins, had appealing notes of tea, tangerine, orange blossom, honey and nuts. “We’re not allowed under Portuguese rules to call it orange though,” Candido said. “We have to label it as white wine [vinho branco] but we have 'Curtimenta', which means ‘skin contact’, on the label.”

Veronica Perera in the Vinedo do Convento vineyard

Perhaps the most interesting terroir we came across was the stoney vineyard (Vinedo do Convento) of Falua that bore a striking resemblance to those in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Veronica Perera, the winemaker, explained how the stones got there. “About 400,000 years ago, the river Tejo changed course and left them,” she said. “They are about mostly four metres deep but can go down to 12 metres. These soils are not found elsewhere in the Tejo region.”

Well-suited to these low-yielding stoney soils is Touriga Nacional which is the only varietal in the excellent Falua Unoaked Red 2020. With 45 hectares under vine, and another 30 to be planted next year, Falua, established in 1994 and imported by Oakley Wine Agency, has an outstanding range with a fine bubbly, a Provencal-like rosé from Castelo and a lovely white blend made up of Fernao Pires, Arinto and Verdelho. The estate is keen to increase on-trade sales.

Another high quality producer not far from Falua is Quinta da Alorna, whose UK importer is Alliance. Chief winemaker Martta Reis Simons presides over 180 hectares of vines, producing 25 SKUs. “We are privileged that our vineyards thrive on soils that give us a unique natural acidity that is expressed in aromatic and sensory freshness,” she said.

Her outstanding red was the Reserva das Pedras Tinta Miuda 2020, made from 36-year old vines on another stoney site. The same grape as Graciano, it is noted for its acidity and perfume, and has very small berries, proffering colour and rusticity but also finesse. No new oak was used by Reis Simons, who says she wants grape expression. All her wines achieve this.

Directly across the road from Quinta da Alorna can be found Quinta do Casal Branco, a former hunting estate of the Portuguese royal family dating back to 1775. One of the most emblematic wineries in the Tejo, it is owned by the aristocratic Jose Lobo de Vasconcelos and has some of the oldest vines in Portugal. The Alicante Bouschet was planted back in the 1890s and the Fernao Pires bush vines on sandy loam soils in the early 1940s. The latter provide the fruit for the Falcoaria label, whose 2021 showed superbly, with mineral notes of stone fruit and pineapple. The UK is number one of 28 markets for the extensive Casal Branco range, with Oakley Wine Agency their importer.

By contrast, another fine but smaller producer – the ODE Winery – has no UK representation. “Minimal Intervention & Maximum Attention” is their self-proclaimed motto, which is emblazoned proudly on the work shirt of Jim Cawood, their Australian ‘director of wine and good times.’ Their 22 hectares of vines is due to receive organic certification next year. The winery dates back to 1902, and is an interesting mix of old and new, with not just lagares, 7,500l foudres and a basket press but also concrete eggs and a dozen clay amphorae.

“Our aim is to create elegant, fruit-forward wines with great structure that respect varietal characteristics and show a true sense of place,” Maria Vicente, the winemaker, said. Her three different Touriga Nacional labels were all vinified differently – ODE Lagares Touriga Nacional 2022 (12% abv, foot-trodden in lagares and matured in stainless steel and old oak), ODE Touriga Nacional 2023 (13.5% abv, partly foot-trodden, aged in concrete and 30% new oak for 4 months) and ODE Touriga Nacional 2023 (11.5% abv, carbonic maceration). The first of these was a personal favourite – an elegant, pretty expression of the grape with low extraction, floral spicy notes and beautifully integrated tannins (RRP €25). “We’ve nicknamed it the Pinotriga,” Cawood quipped.

Casal da Coelheira was founded even longer ago than ODE – in the 1880s –and is yet another outstanding producer. Owned by Nuno Falcao Rodrigues and his wife Margarida, he makes the wine while she is the viticulturist. Their 53 hectares of vines, on very poor sandy Charneca soils, produce some superb Fernao Pires, from which both a white and orange is made (the latter spending three months on the skins in amphorae).

The Alicante Bouschet Private Collection 2021 underlined how good the grape can be as a single varietal. “It’s one of our favourites,” Nuno said. “We always used to blend it but you get such good freshness from it as it’s so naturally high in acidity.” The Casal da Coelheira range is available in the UK through Andy John and Honest Grapes.

Equally impressive were the wines of Quinta do Sobral in the Tomar Mountains at 260m on schist soils very similar to those of the Douro. Marco Manteiga, winemaker for owners Santo & Seixo, who have wineries in several Portuguese regions, crafts nine Sobral labels that all benefit from a very wide diurnal range, which is accentuated by cold nights and morning fog.

The Encosta do Sobral Grande Reserva Vinhas Velhas Fernao Pires 2021, made from ultra low-yielding 90-year old bush vines, had delightful orange blossom notes, while the Encosto do Sobral Reserva 2020 is a red blend that married especially well. Made up of 55% Syrah, 35% Touriga Franca and 10% Touriga Nacional, it effortlessly absorbed 100% new oak, displaying soft tannins and complex, alluring fruit.

Last but by no means least, the Tejo’s co-operatives, Adega de Almeirim and Adega do Cartaxo. The former are the biggest producers of white wines in Portugal, with 90% of its annual output of 24 million litres being that colour (mainly Fernao Pires). Taking in fruit from 120 growers and 1200 hectares of fruit, Almeirim, which was established in 1958, exports 20% of its wines but none as yet to the UK. Its calling card is a big volume, good-value €9 quaffer, A.C.A. 2022 (‘Adega Cooperativa Almeirim), which is a 100% Fernao Pires from poor, sandy soils.

By contrast, Adega do Cartaxo, which lies on the opposite eastern side of the river to Almeirim, deals mainly in red wines, which make up 75% of its production of 10 million litres. Touriga Nacional is the principal grape, ahead of Castelao, Trincadeira and Syrah. Export manager Miguel Cordeiro is keen to increase sales to the UK which are currently effected by Portugalia Wines UK. Piedro Gil, Cartaxa’s winemaker for 29 years, crafts a good range, of which his Detalhe Reserva 2019 stood out. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it spent ten months in 100% new French oak.

David Guimaraens of Fladgate

Fladgate’s Guimaraens on ‘idiocy’, declarations and Taylor’s Sentinels

2024 looks like being declared a classic port vintage – the first since 2018 – according to David Guimaraens, the celebrated technical director and head winemaker for The Fladgate Partnership (TFP), owners of Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft. Geoffrey Dean met up with him over lunch to talk about the thinking behind vintage declaration and taste the 2022s including a new port called Sentinels, and one of a number of new still wines that Fladgate is investing heavily in.

25th January 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

The decision will not be taken before spring 2026, but there may potentially be glad tidings for vintage port devotees. No ‘classic’ vintage has been declared by the port houses since 2018, but David Guimaraens, the celebrated technical director and head winemaker for The Fladgate Partnership (TFP), owners of Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft, considers the outstandingly good 2024 harvest to have sufficient promise to be declared a classic in 18 months time.

Guimaraens, several generations of whose family have long occupied key positions in the Portuguese port industry, was in London to show TFP’s single quinta ports from the 2022 vintage - Taylor’s Vargellas, Fonseca Guimaraens and Taylor’s Sentinels (a new release). More on them later, but first to the question of vintage port declarations and the huge growth in demand for tawnies.

The years 2015-18 brought back-to-back declarations in the Douro for the first time in over a century. “We had a great run in those four vintages,” Guimaraens mused. “A couple of port houses declared 2015 as it was very, very fine. We declared in ’16, ’17 and ’18 as all three had the combination of quality and longevity you need for a great vintage port.”

“The ‘16s are some of the finest, purest ports I’ve had - not as big in structure but really voluptuous in fruit. ’17 was the opposite and similar to 1945 - a very hot year which produced more aggressive tannins. So ’17 was massive. ’18 was a mixture of the two. In the years after, ’19 made very elegant ports but not big; ’20 we didn’t do anything, including single quintas, as they were overripe brutes; ’21 was wet and diluted, and ’22, one of the driest years in last 20, didn't have the structure for us to declare a classic.”

Non-vintage port years, though, are a boon for the production of tawnies. The stats for the huge increase in demand for tawnies make interesting reading, for Guimaraens revealed that in his first year back in Portugal in 1990, after a five-year sojourn in Australia, Taylor’s sold 20,000 litres of their 20-year old tawny port. Already this year, sales have hit 160,000 litres.

"We need to readjust ourselves as businesses,” David Guimaraens, London, November 2024

“The good thing is that you can turn imperfect ports into perfect tawnies,” he continued. “And we have a much healthier industry if we have two great styles of port recognised rather than all vintage or nothing. We have incredible stocks of tawny port. In between vintage declarations, there’s a whole world of tawny port that is capturing the attention of drinkers. To bring 50-year old tawnies or 80-year old VVOP to the market is pretty extraordinary, and that’s a very important sign.”

That importance relates to what Guimarens calls the ‘turbulence’ of the last few years.

“In the port trade we are going through major restructuring,” he added. “Although volumes are shrinking in the port industry, we're also going through a phase where we have never sold as much special category premium port. So we must be careful how we interpret a shrinking industry. Over the last 20 years the Douro has changed from a port wine producer to a region of port and very fine Douro table wines. So we need to readjust ourselves as businesses.”

That readjustment saw TFP acquire last spring its first vineyards in the Douro for table wine production. The Quinta do Portal estate joins other TFP wineries in the Minho, Dao and Bairrada wine regions. “It was an economic necessity to go into Douro table wine,” Guimaraens explained.

"Although we’re magical as a country, we’re idiots in the way we manage ourselves. This year we were only allowed to transform under the Douro Valley quota system one third of our production into port wine.” It means that the remaining two-thirds of fruit from TFP's 500 hectares of port vineyards can only be used for table wine production.

Tasting the new ports

Croft 1970 Vintage Port

From a very hot year, so not a lot of fruit but stunning richness. A great old port from a house acquired by TFP in 2001 whose venerable Quinta da Roeda estate Guimaraens rates extremely highly.

Principal Grand Reserva Red 2012

TFP’s new Bairrada estate on limestone soils with a maritime climate (acquired August 2023). Super-premium blend of Touriga Nacional (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot that retails in Portugal for €110. Big, bold complex fruit with fine, soft tannins and concentrated richness. TFP CEO Adrian Bridge thinks Principal has the potential to become “the Vega Sicilia of Portugal.” He could be right.

Taylor’s Vargellas Single Quinta Vintage Port 2022

From FTP’s flagship estate, Vargellas. A superb single quinta port with violet and herbal aromas, notes of woodland fruit and blackcurrant. Firm but well-integrated tannic backbone to the wine which has notable elegance, balance and poise. RRP £44

Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port 2022

A blend of three Fonseca quintas - Panascal, Cruzeiro and Santo Antonio. Has the same quality of a Fonseca classic vintage port but not the longevity. Aromatic opulence with intense voluptuous notes of cassis, blackberry and wild strawberry fruit with hints of spice and dark chocolate. Silky tannins. RRP £39.

Taylor’s Sentinels Vintage Port 2022

A new release but with the same philosophy as the Fonseca Guimaraens. A blend from Taylor’s historic properties in and around the Pinhao Valley. Lavender and herbal aromas with rich notes of damsons, dark plums, blackcurrants and black cherries. RRP £40.

Fonseca 1992 Vintage Port

Majestic vintage port with a cornucopia of notes of old leather, tobacco, spice, black fruit and chocolate. The first classic year declared for seven years - an unusually long gap.

Top 10 wines of 2024

Best wines of 2024: How Geoffrey Dean's top 10 have a southern bias

Another in our special series of restrospective tastings as our key wine reviewers share the wines that made 2024 an exceptional year for them. Geoffrey Dean is a wine writer who spends a good deal of the year in the Southern Hemisphere so it is no surprise to find that the majority of his Top 10 wines of 2024 are from South America and South Africa, with just a few Europeans thrown in for good measure.

31st December 2024 by Geoffrey Dean

Capensis, Silene Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14% abv

A blend of top-quality fruit from four vineyards in Stellenbosch, including the prime 640m Fijnbosch site in one of the district’s highest wards, Banghoek. The idea for it came from owner Barbara Banke, the American proprietor of Jackson Family Wines who, according to winemaker Graham Weerts, ‘fell in love’ with Stellenbosch Chardonnay. It is the only grape Capensis produce. Attractive citrus allure with silky texture from lees contact. Elegant and fresh with a touch of salinity as well as spice and toasty notes from 30% new oak.

Cederberg, Nieuwoudt Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Cederberg, 13.5% abv

As good a Chenin Blanc as you will find in South Africa. David Nieuwoudt, whose grandfather Pollie planted what are the highest vineyards in the Cape Winelands (at over 1000 metres) in the spectacular Cederberg Mountains, is a master winemaker of this grape. This was the first year that concrete eggs were used for some of the must (10%), boosting richness in the wine’s tantalising texture. Elevage for eleven months in oak (20% new) adds further structure. Whole-bunch pressed and barrel-fermented with wild yeasts, this western Cape classic has huge concentration, complexity and length.

De Martino, Viejas Tinajas Tinto 2022, Guarilihue, Itata, Chile, 13% abv

An elegant single varietal Cinsault from dry-farmed vines planted in 1975 in Itata, southern Chile. Fermentation and ageing for 8 months in clay vats (tinajas) that are over 100 years old. 8% whole bunch (in one tinaja) adds some complexity, grip and structure. Glorious red fruit, medium body and suave tannins make a second glass - or bottle - very appealing. Available in UK through Enotria&Coe, De Martino’s main British partner.

Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard Riesling 2024, Rio Negro, Argentina, 13.3% abv

Wonderful Patagonian Riesling from vines planted on own roots in 1937 (La Morita vineyard). Phylloxera has never reached this arid, semi-desert region of year-round sunshine and low disease pressure. Real intensity to the super-clean lemon and white peach fruit, which was harvested with a pH of 3.0. Steely minerality from flood-irrigated Rio Negro, whose source is in the Andes. Available in the UK through the Great Wine Co (£22).

Leonardslee, Brut Reserve 2021, Sussex, England, 11.5% abv

The first vintage of Leonardslee, owned by the Streeter family, and what a debut! Top-notch traditional method English sparkling wine that spent up to 30 months on the lees, and has a dosage of 7.5g/l. 70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier. Very high levels of acidity (TA 8.9g/l) led to 100% malolactic fermentation. Some reserve wine from 2020 used. Vibrant yet elegant with green apple notes, grapefruit zest and hints of yeastiness and brioche. Fine mousse with lovely mouth-filling texture and impressive length. Hats off to Benguela Cove head winemaker, Johann Fourie, who flies in at key times from South Africa to mastermind production at the estate just outside Horsham.

Pommery, Apanage Brut 1874, 12.5% abv

Only just released in November 2024 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Pommery’s creation of the first ever Brut Champagne in 1874. An ‘Apanage’ was a grant of land or revenue by a French sovereign to a member of the royal family, and was therefore evocative of distinction. This is a blend of three vintages - 2018, 2015, 2012 - all spending four years on the lees. Fruit (around a third each of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier) came from 17 villages. A persistent mousse with delicate aromas of white flowers and orange blossom give way to notes of citrus fruits, pear and apricot. These gradually open up to more complex, autolytic flavours of honey, almond, hazelnut and brioche.

Quinta S.Joao Batista, Reserva de Biodiversidade, DO Tejo 2016, Portugal, 14% abv

A blend of Touriga Franca (70%) and Alicante Bouschet (30%) from the Tejo denomination north-east of Lisbon. Elevage in second and third fill oak for six months. Very appetising red fruit with lots of intensity as well as soft tannins and a lengthy finish. Great value mid-market wine (€16 retail) from a lesser-known region of Portugal that deserves, and looks set for, greater recognition.

Santa Rita, Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Maipo Valley, Chile 14% abv

Flagship Casa Real label of Santa Rita from their low-yielding, old Cabernet vines, planted in 1978 to a density of 3,800 plants per hectare on alluvial soils in Alto Maipo. Veteran winemaker Andrés Ilabaca has crafted a princely Chilean Cabernet with majestic black fruit, earthy tannins and a tobacco kick. Oak (30% new) is well-judged. Extraction also neatly effected, with pump-overs but no punchdowns (nor cold soak). Fruit 100% de-stemmed. Complex with great concentration and a long life ahead of it.

Sunal, Icono Malbec 2017, DO Valles Calchaquies, Argentina 14.5% abv

Top-class extreme altitude Malbec from the far north of Argentina, produced by leading winemaker Agustín Lanús. A blend of micro-terroirs from three provinces in the Calchaquí Valley - Salta, Tucumán and Catamarca - with altitudes ranging from 2,100m to 2,750m. Deep purple, full-bodied and multi-layered, the wine is a complex cornucopia of dark fruits - black plum, blackberry, black olives with balsamic and spicy notes.

Vinos Lof, Syrah 2022, DO Maipo Andes, Chile 13.5% abv

Vinos Lof, a 3-hectare boutique winery co-owned by Perez Cruz winemaker Germán Lyon and wife Francisca Gaete, is one of nine that have formed a new association of small-scale Alto Maipo producers called MaipOrigen. To qualify, each had to be organically-farmed and family-owned, with a maximum annual output of 50,000 bottles. Lyon, one of Chile’s best winemakers, has fashioned a beautifully balanced wine with soft tannins, seductive red and black fruit with herbal and pepper notes. Minerality from volcanic soils and freshness from cool nights. ‘Lof’ is the indigenous word for ‘clan.’ Available in the UK through Virgin Wines (£24.99). The other eight members of MaipOrigen are Caviahue Wines, Viñateros de Raíz, Chateau Potrero Seco, Viña Los 3, Mujer Andina Wines, Los Quiscos, Rukumilla and La Viña del Señor.

Newfound Wines, California

Newfound Wines – connected to both the land and the universe

California’s Newfound Wines is the latest discovery of Geoffrey Dean who advises to ‘snap them up while you can’. Taking an individualistic approach, Matt and Audra Naumann make authentic wines that contain a naturally rugged edge and, most importantly, capture the voice of their unique vineyards. They also over-deliver for their price point which is a rarity on the West Coast. “We view farming as a connection not just to the land but to the universe, respecting that nature is in control and understanding that our role is simply to listen and react.”

6th December 2024 by Geoffrey Dean

We all love to stumble across a winery previously unknown to us whose wines really hit the spot. It will invariably have been ‘found’ by others before you (in this case by Jeroboams' Martin Tickle) but nothing quite beats a personal discovery.

Happy to report I have just made one in the aptly-named Californian boutique winery, Newfound Wines, which is situated in the town of St Helena, 18 miles north of Napa. Winemaker Matt Naumann, and fellow co-owner, his wife Audra, flew into London in October to see Jeroboams, their UK importer, and made a big impression with the eight labels available for tasting.

Naumann does not make huge quantities of wine – the pair have just six acres of their own under vine although they do buy in some top quality fruit from select growers they admire. The Newfound range is so good that the advice is to snap it up while you can, whether on/off-trade or private client

Jeroboams gets small allocations of each wine, although Naumann revealed that the 2022 vintage of its Gravels Red label is its single largest bottling at 690 cases, and “that there's plenty of room within our inventory to offer more to the UK.”

The fruit for the just-released Newfound Gravels Red, California 2022 (65% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 10% Mourvedre) comes from the Mendocino and Napa counties (qualifying it for North Coast AVA), but labelled under the broad California AVA. That way, producers can over-perform for the price which, at £33.95 RRP, is very good value for the quality. Seductive red fruit, herbal and spicy notes along with vibrant freshness and silky tannins combine to give this intensely aromatic, medium-bodied wine beautiful balance (14.1% abv). It has notable length too.

Audra & Matt Naumann

“This is our ‘village’ wine that we want to over-deliver,” Naumann declared. “It’s about the sum of all the parts. Most of the Grenache is from the Cemetery Vineyard, which has young dry-farmed bush vines – you don't see that very often in California. They were planted in an 18-inch layer of gravel, all run-off deposits from the coastal range. Carignan plays an important role in this, although it’s not in the blend every year, as it gives a bit of spine. It’s aged in 68-hectolitre casks mainly.” The excellent single varietal Benchland Carignan from vines planted in Mendocino County 1942 was aged in concrete.

Audra Naumann, who handles marketing, PR and sales, revealed that the Gravels blend has already sold very well in the UK, with an even split between the channels, but Jeroboams’ Marloes Klijnsmit professed the company is keen to sell more to the on-trade. And it is the sort of wine that should have widespread appeal to restaurants, bars and clubs alike.

In contrast to the young Grenache Gravels vines, the 2022 Newfound Chenin Blanc, Henry's Vineyard, Napa Valley comes from vines dating back to 1942 at the base of Howell Mountain. The three acres there are among only seven planted to Chenin Blanc in the whole of Napa County. Texture, intensity and glorious freshness were hallmarks of this superb expression of the varietal.

Equally impressive was the 2022 Newfound Chardonnay, Placida Vineyard, Sonoma Coast. From very low-yielding vines (1.5 tons per acre) grafted over to Chardonnay in 2019 by grower Chuy Ordaz just outside the town of Graton, this underwent neither malolactictic fermentation nor filtration. Interestingly, like the Chenin Blanc, it saw fermentation and elevage in 100% new oak (500-litre puncheons or 600l demi-muides). The oak has been immaculately judged.

“The Chardonnay came from the southern part of the Russian River Valley, which is much more interesting,” Naumann said. “In a cooler part right by a cold pocket called Green Valley. Chardonnay does very well there, holding onto its acidity well even in a hotter year like ’22 when its pH was 3.35. In both ’21 and ’23, the pH was 3.09.”

Matt and Audra Naumann at the Newfound Wines tasting, London, October 2024

The width of the diurnal range on the Naumanns’ own property – Hill View in the Sierra Foothills at 2100 feet – means that acid retention is not an issue for its Grenache vines there. A cooling coastal breeze off the Pacific is also beneficial. When the couple bought the ranch in 2106, the neglected vines were grubbed up, with the replanted ones farmed organically in line with their nature-led philosophy.

“We view farming as a connection not just to the land but to the universe, respecting that nature is in control and understanding that our role is simply to listen and react,” Naumann declared. “We endeavour to take an individualistic approach and raise authentic wines that contain a naturally rugged edge and, most importantly, capture the voice of our vineyards.”

The magical vineyard at Shake Ridge Ranch

The Grenache planted at Hill View and Shake Ridge Vineyards on what are ideal soils for the varietal – 100% decomposed granite – certainly does ‘capture the voice of the vineyards’. Any rugged edge only added to its complexity, with its tannins tactile yet polished. With no new oak (only third fill or older) employed for any of the reds, all of them spoke of their terroir, with a mineral character evident from the Grenache and Syrah. “That’s such a thumbprint of the wines,” Naumann mused. “So much clarity and transparency.”

Thanks to the fact that Naumann is, as he puts it, “very conservative and moderate with sugar levels at picking,” the six reds tasted were all between 12.5% and 14.1% abv. “All my reds are whole-bunch pressed,” he revealed. “Adding whole makes sense as we’re not trying to make overly fruit-driven wines. I like the savoury side stylistically – it lifts aromatics. I don’t do punchdowns, just pumpovers with the Mourvèdre. Wild yeasts for both white and red fermentation.”

While Newfound’s annual production is low - between 3-5,000 bottles - exports to Canada, Denmark, Sweden, Belgium and the UK are valued.

“We’re thoughtful where we're positioning ourselves in the world,” Audra said. “About 40% exports diversifies your risk. The New York market is pretty challenged right now, as is California with consumption down thanks to a challenging economy, high interest rates and more attention to health. The ethos of our brands resonates more with the next generation wine drinker.”

Matt added: “Regarding our production, the volumes have increased over the years and continue to do so. While the vineyard designates tend to be limited in supply, additional quantities are also available from each of the Placida Mourvèdre & Grenache bottlings tasted. Unfortunately, the Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay were quite scarce from the 2022 vintage, so whatever Jeroboams has on hand would be it for the time being. However, we expect more will be available with the next vintage release (2023) in the early part of 2025.

The UK is an important part of our sales strategy as we look to continue to develop our presence. We absolutely love the professionalism within the wine community and feel that our style is well suited for the market.”

Meanwhile, visitors to St Helena will now find a cellar door that the Naumanns started in 2022. “We’re doing as we hoped,” Audra said. “The Grenache gets snapped up as the maximum we make of anything is 120 cases bar the Gravels. With quite affordable price tags, people ask ‘why aren't your wines more money?’ But we don't want to go down that route…we want to make fine wines that are priced fairly. We want you the drinker to be really happy.”

Having tasted the wines, that should be a given.

The wines available through Jeroboams

2022 Newfound Chenin Blanc, Henry's Vineyard, Napa Valley 13.5% £55

2022 Newfound Chardonnay, Placida Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 13.5% £55

2022 Newfound Gravels Red, California 14.1% £29.95

2022 Newfound Grenache, Placida Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 13.7% £55

2022 Newfound Mourvedre, Placida Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 12.5% £55

2019 Newfound Shake Ridge Grenache, Amador County 13.9% £46

2019 Newfound Shake Ridge Mourvedre, California 14% £46

2019 Newfound Benchland Carignane, Mendocino County 13.5% £35.5