Berkmann Aussie icons

Berkmann Wine Cellars’ initiative in showing four iconic Australian brands as part of its 60th anniversary celebrations brought reward for those trade and media who made the London tasting. Titled A Celebration of Premium Australian Wine it featured two top Aussie winemakers from Victoria, Sarah Crowe and Ray Nadeson, of Yarra Yering and Lethbridge respectively, were there to talk through their wines, as were two sales directors, Andrew Watson of Woodlands in Margaret River, and Leigh Woodrow of Langmeil in the Barossa Valley.

25th October 2025 by Geoffrey Dean,

"Why put on this ‘celebration of premium Australian wine’?” asked Berkmann’s Alex Hunt MW rhetorically. No justification was really needed, but he still gave a scholarly one. “If wine exists at the intersection of agriculture and art, then Australia is one of the most richly resourced countries in all of wine. I hope that this tasting is going to demonstrate that. Because after all, we all know that Australia’s reputation was a bit tarnished by the excellent way they managed to scale up the more industrial end of agriculture for winemaking a number of decades ago: irrigating, mechanising, producing vast amounts of cheerily banal quaffers.

“But every country has its quaffers, and no country should be punished for that. Here we’re going to look at the other end of the scale – the haute couture if you like. Australia has remarkable soil – some incredibly old, though not all, and those soils are populated by some of the world’s oldest vines. In many cases, they are on their own roots. Then there’s the human element. Tending those vineyards are some of the most forward-looking, visionary, pragmatic and exploratory winemakers in the world. They’re versed in the classics but you’ll never see them copy the classics. Instead, the goal is to make detailed, delicious, multi-dimensional expressions of their own respective vineyards.”

Hunt was, of course, referring to the very wines in front of us. Yarra Yering, which was founded back in 1969, is lord of the Yarra Valley manor while Lethbridge Wines, in the Geelong region, has attracted a cult following since its establishment in 1996. Langmeil, meanwhile, is home to what is thought to be the oldest surviving Shiraz vineyard in the world, The Freedom 1843 (still on own roots). It was planted by Christian Auricht, a blacksmith who fled to South Australia due to religious persecution in his native Prussia. As for Woodlands, it is one of Western Australia’s best boutique producers, being situated in the prime sub-region of Wilyabrup where its oldest vines were planted in 1973 by the Watson family, still its owners.

Chardonnay was the first varietal tasted, with the straight-talking Nadeson, who founded Lethbridge with wife Maree and fellow scientist Adrian Thomas, getting straight to the point. Wanting to know how much of his 2016 Allegra had seen malolactic fermentation and also how much new oak, he got a variety of answers.

“Well, it’s 100% malo,” he barked. “The wine would be undrinkable without it… it’d taste like battery acid. And it’s also 100% new oak, although I’m hopeful you don’t see it.” Nor did we, a creamy honeycomb texture being balanced by telling acidity and generous white stone fruit.

The Yarra Yering Chardonnay 2020 was vinified quite differently, seeing no malolactic fermentation and 35% new oak, with much less than that detectable. An exceptional wine of purity and finesse, this had lovely crystalline acidity. Equally impressive was the Woodlands Brook Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, which went through partial malolactic, saw 35% new oak and had a fine acid backbone with attractive lime juice and tangerine notes.

Nadeson and Crowe also produced their Pinots from the 2019 vintage. The Lethbridge Mietta Pinot Noir 2019 is a stunning wine, from a biodynamically-farmed vineyard that yielded just nine hl/ha. “The site is black clay soil full of ironstone, which gives a visceral bloody and salty character,” Nadeson declared.

“It was 100% whole bunch but with very gentle extraction and no pumpovers. Then aged in 100% new oak which is very, very lightly toasted as it’s all about giving tannins and oxygen to the wine not sweetness. In Australia we get fruit for free but need more tannins, hence the oak. In Burgundy, you’re going to have lots of tannin but can lack flesh and fruit, which is why they tend to use higher toast to fill in the gaps.”

By contrast, Crowe employed only 20% whole bunch. “I want that beautiful fragrance, silky palate and fruit profile in my Pinot,” she said. “I also want that finish with some tannin and structure – hence some bunch inclusion.”

The Shirazes perhaps stole the show. Langmeil’s The Freedom 1843 Shiraz 2019 was the product of a challenging vintage when “everything that could hit us did – frost and hail included,” Woodrow said. The yield from the dry-grown plot of just over a hectare was tiny, just 2000 bottles. Winemaker Paul Lindner take a bow, for this is a sleek, fresh wine with super soft tannins and real finesse. The Langmeil Pure Eden Shiraz 2018 (from a single site in the much higher Eden Valley planted in the 1890s) was matured very differently – in 10% new American oak and older French/American hogsheads – while the Freedom saw 45% new French oak with no American. The complex Pure Eden showed superbly, being intense and fragrant yet elegant and fresh.

The Yarra Yering Dry Red No 2, 2017 (95% Shiraz, 2% Mataro, 2% Viognier, 1% Marsanne) is a great advert for how good Yarra Valley examples of Shiraz can be. Crowe sheepishly admitted it is her favourite varietal. Made from six different blocks and four clones, it has a wonderfully layered fruit profile with silkiness on the palate, and a dash of spice from the Mataro (aka Mourvedre). The Lethbridge Indra Shiraz 2018 (2% Viognier) was its equal, coming from cracked black basalt soils on a bed of limestone. Minerality and cinnamon/clove spice, along with charcuterie and olive tapenade notes, are features of this concentrated yet graceful Shiraz.

To conclude a memorable tasting were a pair of Cabernet-led blends. The Woodlands ‘Clementine Eloise’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (94% Cabernet, 4% Malbec, 2% Cab Franc) is as good as it gets from the Margaret River – pretty and elegant with mouthwatering acidity, fine soft tannins and glorious fruit from what were then 43-year old vines. The grapes from Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 2018 came from even older vines (planted 1969), although Crowe revealed that the 55% Cabernet Sauvignon quotient is normally much higher.

“One of the most important things I do is put together this blend,” she said. “There was much higher Merlot than normal – 28% as it adds softness as well as wonderful blue and black fruits and subtle herbal expression. Extra Malbec (12%) gives red fruit and energy and 5% Petit Verdot some spice.”

Three new Scottish distilleries

Inside 3 new Scot distilleries: Port of Leith, Ardnamurchan and Holyrood

There have been 20 new distilleries opened across Scotland in the past 15 years - two in Edinburgh, Port of Leith and Holyrood, being the first to operate in the capital since 1925. Geoffrey Dean headed up to meet them and find out what makes them unique then heads out to the West Highlands to visit Ardnamurchan, a distillery which is fast gaining national and international notoriety.

15th October 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

Since 2010, more than 20 new whisky distilleries have been launched across Scotland, from the Highlands and Islands, including Islay and Raasay, to Speyside, the Lowlands and Edinburgh. The latter’s new pair, Port of Leith and Holyrood, were the first to operate in the Scottish capital since 1925.

Award-winning Ardnamurchan

More on them later, but first a distillery whose graph has enjoyed nothing but an upward curve since it opened in 2014: Ardnamurchan, on the ruggedly beautiful peninsula of the same name to the west of Fort William. Awards have not stopped coming Ardnamurchan’s way since it released its first single malt in 2020. For three successive years - 2021, 2022 and 2023 - it was voted ‘Best New Distillery’ in the Online Scottish Whisky Awards. This hat-trick of gongs was followed by another in 2024 when it was adjudged ‘Global Sustainable Distillery of the World’ in the Icons of Whiskies' World Whiskies awards.

Unusually, all the power and heat requirements for the distillery come from local renewables. The river that provides the distillery’s cooling water has a hydro-electricity generator, solar panels provide energy and the biomass boiler is fuelled by wood chip from local forestry. In addition, the by-products of the whisky-making process are recycled on the peninsula, notably the energy-rich draff (the leftovers in the mash tun), which is mixed with the pot ale to produce animal feed.

Indeed, the overall footprint of the distillery is suitably environmentally benign for such a remote and isolated part of Scotland, where the nearby lighthouse that dates back to 1849 is situated on the westernmost extension of the British mainland. In a nod to the distillery’s location, the lighthouse’s coordinates are subtly engraved on the lighthouse logo that is on every label of its various whiskies.

And what a characterful range of whiskies Ardnamurchan has produced since Princess Anne was invited to open the distillery and draw the first bottle of spirit eleven years ago. She is pictured in the visitor centre, as are the likes of Alex Ferguson and Ian Botham, who have made the pilgrimage to the peninsula to buy Ardnamurchan’s whiskies. These are single malts with pronounced earthiness, as well as fruity notes, honey and salinity.

Maturation is in as many as 15 different types of casks, including bourbon, sherry, sauternes, Tokaj, port, champagne, rum and tequila. Of the typical annual production of of 360,000 litres of alcohol, half are peated and half non-peated. The former see 30ppm of phenols, although a few select casks are heavily peated to 80ppm (and held back for later release). The milder maritime temperatures of Ardnamurchan (which translates as the “Headland of the Great Seas” in Scottish Gaelic) encourages quicker maturation, blessed by the rugged west coast air, in the view of distillery manager, Gordon Mackenzie.

Gordon Mackenzie

“It gives our whisky a certain element that cannot be replicated elsewhere,” Mackenzie told me on a visit to the distillery in August. “Our wet weather and maritime climate suits maturation.” Mackenzie, a former boat builder and bus driver from Mallaig, came to the whisky industry late but has cultivated an excellent reputation as the head of production (Ardnamurchan never having appointed a master distiller).

“Our barley comes from two different areas in Scotland - Fife, where the family of our MD Alex Bruce has a farm, and Inverness,” he continued. “We have a malting floor but we’ve never used it as it’s not finished yet. We benefit from very pure water, which is peaty as it comes through the hills. We have seven warehouses at present with two more planned. We have just over 18,000 casks holding 2.2 million litres of alcohol. So we’re small compared to the big guys. Whereas everyone else is amping up production, we’re just keeping steady. We don’t make an a big noise because we don't have an awful lot of stock. We have a good sales team that look after customers.”

The word, though, about Ardnamurchan’s quality has spread around the world, notably Japan where it has established a strong following. Other overseas markets include Germany, France, Netherlands, USA, Australia, New Zealand and Uruguay. Direct-to-consumer sales are booming with annual visitors to the distillery typically numbering just over 8,000, although in 2024, that reached a record 9,500.

“I didn’t believe there was a distillery being built here till I saw the diggers going in,” Mackenzie mused. “It’s been great for the community. It brings in lots of visitors and is a good employer - there are 14 of us here. We got a £1.7m grant towards construction from the EU in 2014, which was lucky timing as we wouldn't get that now.”

One key construction decision was regarding the washbacks. The debate over whether wooden or stainless steel washbacks are best has long raged, so a decision was taken to build both – four from wood (a brace apiece of oak and Oregon pine) and three from stainless steel.

“Hopefully they will last for ever,” Mackenzie said. “It was £44,000 for the second Oregon pine one just done. They built it here, with the size determined by the width of the bridge at Acharacle, ten miles or so the east. It was pre-cut as they knew the measurements.”

Edinburgh’s Port of Leith

A little younger than Ardnamurchan are the two new Edinburgh distilleries: Port of Leith and Holyrood. The former is not just the UK’s first vertical distillery but also the tallest in the world at 40m, with its nine storeys soaring over Leith’s historic port and the decommissioned Royal Yacht Britannia. You get a great view of it from the top floor bar, which has an extensive list of whiskies from around the world and some fine cuisine. The £14 million brainchild of two boyhood friends –Ian Stirling and Paddy Fletcher, who are joint CEOs – construction started during Covid with the distillery opening in October 2023.

Perhaps not coincidentally, the distillery has its own water source, an aquifer beneath it. Its washbacks are stainless steel, which were lowered into place with the rest of the building built over them. As such, they are the only suspended washbacks in the world. As for Port of Leith’s barley, all of it comes from a farm a few miles east of Edinburgh, which is taken to maltings in Alloa, just west of the capital. From there, it is delivered to the distillery, making the 90-mile round trip from farm to its stills one of the shortest of any distillery in the UK. The crop for the distillery’s first single malt came from 2022, which enjoyed ideal growing conditions.

Holyrood Distillery in Edinburgh

Holyrood Distillery opened a little earlier than Port of Leith (in 2019) in the centre of Edinburgh’s historic old town. Calum Rae, the distillery manager, stresses Holyrood’s innovative approach to distilling, inspired by the rich brewing history of the city that, at one point, had as many as 40 breweries.

“We put just as much emphasis on the malt and the yeast as we do on the cask selection,” he said, “as we believe all three of these aspects contribute to creating unique and exciting flavour. Casks will always play a large part, but we believe that heritage barley, specialty malts, brewer’s and specialty yeasts are our building blocks of flavour.”

Like Achnamurchan, Holyrood has not taken long to win plaudits. Earlier this year, it was voted the Icons of Whisky’s ‘Distiller of the Year’ at the World Whiskies Awards. Throw in Port of Leith, and you have a triumvirate of youthful distilleries that are producing outstanding spirit

Enotria tasting, Sept 2025

“Back to our roots” – Enotria’s new lease of life shared at Sense of Place

A decade after becoming Enotria&Coe when it bought Coe Vintners, Enotria has reverted to its old name in a rebranding exercise that includes a new logo. The move, driven by new owners Majestic Wine Group after its acquisition last spring of the UK’s largest premium wine wholesaler and distributor, was fully unveiled at a spectacular annual portfolio tasting called Sense of Place at The Brewery in London in late September. Geoffrey Dean talks to the company’s acting CEO John Colley, and other key players about Enotria’s new lease of life and discovers some of the new agencies that Enotria has signed up since the buyout.

9th October 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

More than 1,500 trade professionals were present along with 150 of Enotria’s suppliers at the event which was spread over five rooms in the venerable building. These housed Europe, Americas, Tri-Nations (South Africa, Australia & New Zealand), Fizz and Spirits.

“It is much more than a change of name,” John Colley, Enotria’s interim chief executive and Majestic Wine Group executive chairman, declared. “It signals a return to our roots as a premium wines and spirits distributor. Bringing back the Enotria name is a statement of our re-focussing the business. That means increased investment in providing the best possible service for our customers and suppliers as a standalone operator, despite being owned by the larger Majestic Wine Group.”

Colley was at pains to stress the importance of a family-feel within Enotria. “Look at the history of Enotria - 53-years old - and Majestic 45-years old,” he continued. “Both family-started companies, and I think that in our cultural DNA we have that family-feel. We’re not just going to have hundreds of supply partners. They must mean something to not just our colleagues trying to sell them but also our customers trying to buy them. They have to have a reason to belong in our business. That’s really important. There’s a story behind every wine at Majestic, and there must be a story behind every single supplier that works with us at Enotria.”

With a story comes the need for sustainability, as Colley explained: “Sustainability is really important and growing in importance. From an on-trade perspective, it’s one of the top points they look for - not just a great product and price point but where you are on sustainability. It’s becoming a more and more important part of our pitches when we’re aiming at new customers.”

Half a dozen new suppliers were at the Brewery, including two new Italian ones to bolster Enotria’s stable to 64 from Italy, comfortably the most from any country.

“We’re incredibly proud of all the new suppliers,” Colley continued. “They are brands exclusive to us that we are championing and have hand-picked to work with because we think they’re brilliant.”

Given Enotria’s much-trumpeted Italian roots, what better place to start than its two new additions from that country: Frisino from Puglia and Vina Petrussa from Friuli.

Frisino from Puglia

Francesco Frisino, the winemaker, explained the estate’s history, which was acquired by his parents in 1984. Originally an olive oil enterprise with 70 hectares of olive trees, vines were finally planted in 2015 with Francesco and his sister Flavia “coming back to restyle the brand in 2018 when winemaking started.”

Significantly, Federico Curtaz, a renowned viticulturist who worked with Angelo Gaja in Barbaresco for 15 years, was recruited to oversee the vineyards, where Primitivo, Negroamaro, Chardonnay and Verduca are grown at altitudes of up to 300 metres. The latter grape, whose historical home is Puglia but may have been brought from Greece where it is known as Lagorthi, had zippy acidity and citrus notes with a hint of minerality.

“Verduca is our best-seller,” Frisino revealed. “We think it is amazing as you can drink it with everything - as an aperitivo or with white meats, pasta and salads. This is our first entry into the UK market, and we are honoured to be part of this incredible company Enotria. We have a new Puglian philosophy how to make wine - fresh, high quality, low alcohol and family-produced.”

Vina Petrussa from Friuli

Vina Petrussa, whose eight hectares of vines are nestled in the Prepotto commune within Friuli’s Colli Orientali DOC, is another family affair. Indeed, it is a wonderful story of women carrying the flag for three generations, beginning with Giuseppina Petrussa in the 1970s after her husband died suddenly. Her daughter Hilde took over and now grand-daughter Francesca Mecchia makes the wines from local varietals - Friulano, Malvasia, Picolit, Refosco and Schioppettino.

Vina Petrussa’s 2019 Schioppettino won the ‘Tre Bicchieri’ award in Gambero Rosso in 2024 - the only Friuli red to do so. Deeply coloured, perfumed and peppery, it is blessed with lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The estate has been awarded the SQNPI sustainability certificate, issued by the Italian government’s ministry for agricultural products.

Two Italian stalwarts

From two new Italian recruits to a redoubtable Italian duo, for whom Enotria has been the exclusive UK distributor since the 1970s. Fontanafredda, the Piemonte producer whose total output is six million bottles per year, is the core of the Italian portfolio, and the respect is mutual.

“Enotria is one of our most important partners - they always try to spread our brand as widely as possible,” said Nadin Bertonasco, the winery’s brand ambassador. “We make about 35,000 bottles of Gavi every year, of which 15-16,000 are sold in the UK.”

Launched at the tasting was Fontanafredda’s new vintage sparkling wine, Alta Langa Special Edition 2021 (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay), made by the traditional method and aged on the lees for 30 months, with dosage of 4.6g/l. Retailing at £25, it represents good value. Bertonasco is hopeful that sales of Asti Spumante, of which Fontanafredda makes two million bottles per annum, will grow in the UK on-trade as consumption is up in other markets.

“All the restaurants like it, with its very good acidity and 7% alcohol,” she said, before showing the alluring Barolo DOCG, Vigna La Rosa 2020. It is Fontanafredda’s top Barolo, which comes from an organically-farmed monopole, and was first produced in 1964.

Fattoria dei Barbi in Montalcino has been supplying Enotria since the company was founded in 1972. One of Italy’s oldest and most respected wineries, its winemaker and CEO Stefano Colombini is seventh generation with his ancestors having pioneered the planting of Sangiovese in Montalcino.

“We started producing the Brunello Blue Label in 1892,” export manager Samuele Cecchini declared. “It is usually aged for three years in old Slavonian oak and is the most popular of our wines in the UK. The Riserva is only made in the best years from the best vineyards.”

From the Americas – South and North

Another new addition to the Enotria portfolio is Domaine Bousquet from Mendoza, which is the largest organic producer in Argentina, with 260 hectares under vine, all certified. As it makes as many as 42 different labels, the winery needs to buy in fruit as well, but only from growers who farm organically. Exporting 95% of its production to as many as 60 markets, Domaine Bousquet is a huge success story after being founded by immigrants from Carcassonne.

“We are very happy to be with Enotria as they are really professional, and through them we have a lot of opportunities in the UK,” said Rodrigo Serrano, the winemaker. “Everyone loves the Gaia Cabernet Franc, which is biodynamically farmed on 100% calcareous soil. Our top Malbec is named Ameri after our owner, and is from our oldest vines: 25 years on 100% calcareous soils with a lot of limestone profile in the wine.”

Still in the Americas, but to the north, are two new Enotria recruits: The Prisoner Wine Company and Booker Wines. The former’s fruit comes from Napa, with Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc all going into the iconic The Prisoner Red Blend. Its Saldo label – deliberately ‘minimalistic’ according to marketing manager Jess Bell – is 100% Zinfandel. “We’re just sending 100 cases of our five labels to Enotria, but hoping to grow it,” Bell added. Booker Wines, meanwhile, produces super premium labels from Rhône varietals in the Paso Robles AVA.

Four new spirits brands

When it comes to spirits, Enotria has an incomparable portfolio which has just been augmented with some intriguing additions. One such is Kakira, a Ugandan distillery on the shores of Lake Victoria whose rum is proving a hit. It is owned by the Madhvani family, who hail from Gujrat originally, and started growing sugar cane there in 1930 but were expelled in the 1970s by Idi Amin. The 45,000-acre Kakira Sugar Estate went to ruin but the family eventually returned to resuscitate it. It now employs a staggering 12,500 people, for whom it provides not just homes but also schooling and healthcare.

Kakira Rum is made from molasses, a by-product of sugar cane, with gin and vodka also produced. By burning waste from the 180,000 tons of sugar produced annually, it generates not just enough electricity to power the entire farm but also the nearby cities of Kampala and Entebbe. In the last five years, the company has planted 2.5 million trees.

Chris Appleby, Enotria’s head of agency brands, could not hide his admiration for Kakira and its sustainability ethos. “Both the seven and five-year old rums have been on the market here for just over 12 months and have got some listings as well as on the Cunard cruise liners from Southampton to New York,” he said. “We want to make people realise that good aged rum can be made outside the Caribbean. It’s aged in Bourbon and sherry casks. The seven-year old wins most of the awards. We sell mainly to the on-trade but it’s available on Amazon and at the Whisky Exchange.”

So too is another Enotria spirit, Bladnoch, the most southerly whisky distillery in Scotland. That too has a story to tell. Founded in 1817, it closed down in 2014 and was bought by Australian yoghurt multi-millionaire David Prior a year later, resuming production in 2017 with much new equipment. Former Macallan master distiller, Nick Savage, was recruited in 2019. The 13, 16 and 19-year olds all showed beautifully to underline the quality of Bladnoch’s whisky. “David turned Bladnoch around,” Scottish whisky expert, James Logan, said. “It’s a tiny place with not many jobs, but he employs 60 at the distillery, giving so many people a purpose and bringing tourism.”

From whisky to gin, and a new premium one from Audemus that Miko Abouaf, the founder of the popular Pink Pepper gin brand, is aiming to release into the UK through Enotria.

“None has been sold yet but I wanted to test it out today and feedback has been excellent,” Abouaf, an Australian who has lived in Cognac for 14 years, said. “The idea is to produce a vibrant fresh gin that is very citrus but has none in it. I can do this by including vacuum-distilled ginger as one of the botanicals.” Rich in flavour with a powerful nose, this experimental gin (44% abv) was complex yet approachable.

Finally, much credit to two Northern Irishman, Paul Burns and Anthony Farrell, who had flown in for the day from Belfast to showcase some of their Cocktail Keg Company SKUs. Set up by the pair in 2019, it has become the number one pre-packaged cocktail brand in Ireland. In one of the few growing drinks categories, its RTD (ready-to-drink) and RTS (ready-to-serve) products, which have sustainability and quality at their heart, drew big numbers on the day. The ‘whisky sour’ and ‘passionfruit martini’ were a great way to finish a memorable portfolio tasting, Enotria’s first large-scale event since its acquisition by Majestic Wine Group.

Wines for Halloween (Telegraph Media)

The perfect wines for harvest and Halloween occasions

Plot your pairings for October’s Autumnal evenings and the weird and wonderful celebrations at the month’s end

Geoffrey Dean

07 October 2025 4:15pm BST

With harvest supper and Halloween upon us, a few suggestions for some suitable wines are in order, with Laithwaites’ extensive range offering plenty of options. We have selected a white, a quintet of reds, a top sweet wine from Bordeaux and a sweet fortified aperitif in the form of apple juice blended with Somerset cider brandy. First, our harvest supper wines:

Queen Bee Viognier 2025, WO Western Cape, 12% abv, £14.99

The celebrated Rhône white grape, Viognier, finds beautiful expression in the vineyards of the Journey’s End winery near the town of Somerset West, an hour’s drive east of Cape Town. Named after the Cape honey bee, this beguiling wine is picked early to preserve acidity and keep the alcohol down to 12 per cent (Viognier being naturally higher in alcohol than most white varietals).

Light straw in colour, it has a waxy nose with aromas of honeysuckle blossom. Round and rich on the palate, it has notes of passionfruit, peach and pear, and slips down a treat. A dash of Chenin Blanc, a grape naturally high in acidity, adds freshness and balance. Such a versatile wine as this can be drunk either as an aperitif or with a wide range of harvest food.

Cabalié 2024, Vin de France, 13% abv, £12.99

Roussillon in south-west France, near the Spanish border, has high-quality red wines that are great value for money. This gem of a Catalan blend is one such. Comprising 70 per cent Grenache, 20 per cent Syrah and 10 per cent Mourvèdre, it was made from low-yielding vines over 50 years in age by highly respected vigneron Hervé Sabardeil. Ruby-coloured but verging on dark purple, it is rich with a heady floral nose of violets and herbal scents.

Spicy blackberry fruit mingled with raspberry and strawberry notes provides a delightful intensity of flavour and concentration. Soft, round tannins and 13 per cent alcohol make this so easy to drink it’s hard to resist a second glass of this ever-popular wine. It goes well with hearty dishes.

Le Prince de Courthézon 2023, AOC Côtes-du-Rhône, 14% abv, £15.99

This Grenache-led blend comes from the only co-operative in Châteauneuf-du-Pape – the Cellier des Princes – which is situated in the town of Courthézon, and owned and run by local growers. It cannot be labelled as a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but nevertheless it is produced from vines grown on the same soil.

With 10 per cent Mourvèdre and 10 per cent Syrah added, this is a lovely herb-scented wine that was made by Thierry Ferlay. Rich yet elegant with ripe red and black fruit, it is brimming with peppery spice and liquorice notes. Velvety tannins and oodles of concentration make this a choice mid-market red. It goes well with stews and cottage pie as well as cheeses. 

LC 2019 Sauternes AOC, 13.5%, £15 (37cl) 

A delicious sweet wine from Sauternes to accompany puddings, blue cheeses or foie gras. This comes from botrytised Semillon grapes, with a small percentage of Sauvignon Blanc, in Bordeaux’s best-known region for dessert wines. With 125g/l of residual sugar, it is mouthcoatingly sweet but with sufficient acidity to provide balance and freshness.

The wine was made by Jean-Marc Sauboua, who jumped at the opportunity to buy what was excess fruit from a leading Sauternes estate, whose identity must remain a secret. The quality of the grapes, however, is such that this wine could easily be mistaken for a top ‘sticky’ with its rich, complex notes of honey, marzipan, dried nuts and apricot. It has great length and concentration.

‘Halloween’ wines

Rex Mundi Shiraz Grenache 2025, Pays d’Oc IGP, 13% abv, £12.99 

This seductive Roussillon is another creation of Hervé Sabardeil, one of Laithwaites’ favourite winemakers. It is named after Rex Mundi, Latin for King of the World, and a term given to a Satanic god by the medieval Cathars, who lived near the current vineyards in the region. For them, this god was flawed, but there is nothing flawed about this rich, spicy, luscious blend of red plum and black cherry fruit with its velvety tannins. 

Waxed Bat 2024, Mendoza, 14% abv, £9.99 

An enticing blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec from Argentina’s best-known wine region, its wacky name was the idea of winemaker Opi Sadler, who used to explore his grandfather’s wine cellar with a candle as there was no lighting, but had to contend with resident bats that often flew into the candle and its wax. Violet, damson and liquorice notes are central to this spicy red, which has super-soft tannins and a medium to full body. Very moreish.

Lobo e Falcão 2024, Vinho Regional Tejo, 12.5% abv, £13.99

An excellent value-for-money blend from the Tejo region, north-east of Lisbon, it includes the well-known Portuguese varietals Castelão and Touriga Nacional as well as Syrah. The wine comes from a winery that was once a former hunting estate of the Portuguese royal family – Quinta do Casal Branco – now owned by the aristocratic Jose Lobo de Vasconcelos.

Lobo e Falcão translates as ‘wolf and falcon’. Winemaker Joana Lopes has produced a gorgeously silky red with pronounced intensity of flavour from spicy black and red fruit. Wine Enthusiast, the American publication, liked a previous vintage so much that it gave the wine a ‘best buy’ award.

Somerset Cider Brandy Kingston Black Apple Aperitif, 18% abv, £15.99

A delicious dessert tipple fortified with cider brandy to 18 per cent abv, this should be served chilled, ideally on the rocks. Some like to add tonic water. It is made from the fermented apple juice of the celebrated Kingston Black cultivar, hailed as the ‘king of cider apples.’ Its skin is such a dark red-purple hue that it is called Kingston Black.

Dating back to 1820, it is thought to be named after the village of Kingston St Mary near Taunton. With floral quince, citrus and gooseberry notes, it is an excellent palate cleanser. Drink as an aperitif and with chicken or pork belly roasts, lemony puddings and mature cheeses. 

Wines for the Proms (Telegraph Media)

Five flag-friendly British bubbles that hit the right notes

These brilliant English sparkling wines are the perfect accompaniment to waving the Union Jack during September’s musical highlights. As the BBC Proms celebrates 130 years, discover the finest English sparkling wines hitting all the right notes

Geoffrey Dean

11 September 2025 3:15pm BST

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The BBC Proms season of daily orchestral classical music concerts and other events, held predominantly at the Royal Albert Hall and which began in the third week of July, will culminate with its celebrated Last Night of the Proms performance on 13 September. 

For a great British institution celebrating its 130th anniversary this year, what could be more apt than to recommend a collection of English sparkling wines from the Laithwaites range, all made by the traditional method, to enjoy with the music.

The quality of these English wines is now so high that they are as good as, if not better than, many Champagnes. Two factors are at play in this respect: first, global warming has allowed the principal Champagne grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier – to ripen fully in the south of England; secondly, the world’s most celebrated stretch of limestone, the Paris Basin, runs from the Loire, Burgundy and Champagne under the Channel into the southern counties.

Vines grown on a decent proportion of limestone invariably produce wines with glorious freshness and brightness, marked by vivid acidity that is well integrated. Indeed, the fact that England is still a cool-climate wine region, despite recent heatwaves, is another bonus, with the generally low nocturnal temperatures preserving precious acidity.

1. English Heritage Sparkling Rosé NV (12 per cent ABV, £28)

This cracking bubbly, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, was made by Ridgeview’s Simon Roberts, the International Wine and Spirit Competition International Winemaker of the Year in 2018. By buying the wine, drinkers will support the important role that English Heritage plays in protecting national buildings and artefacts.

Fittingly, the label features human figures in period dress from the Middle Ages. The fruit came from Ridgeview’s Sussex vineyards. A citrus core, framed by strawberries, is evident along with biscuity notes and a creamy mousse. This one is a real crowd-pleaser.

2. Harrow & Hope Brut Reserve Release No 8 English Sparkling NV (12 per cent ABV, £33)

In 2010, Henry Laithwaite, having honed his winemaking skills in Australia and Bordeaux, planted six hectares, later increased to 10, of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier vines in the rolling hills above Marlow in Buckinghamshire. A winery was built there in 2013, and only six years later, Harrow and Hope was named UK Winery of the Year at the Wine GB awards.

Aged on the lees for three and a half years, this dry white delivers a fine mousse before creamy apricot and autolytic notes emerge, along with toasted brioche. Laithwaite’s wife, Kaye, is part of a winemaking team that also produces a fine Blanc de Noirs.

3. Bee Tree Sugrue English Sparkling Rosé 2020 (12 per cent ABV, £35)

This enchanting sparkling rosé (80 per cent Pinot Noir, 20 per cent Pinot Meunier) was made by former Nyetimber winemaker Dermot Sugrue and his wife Ana, who own three vineyards in Sussex: Bee Tree in Wivelsfield Green, Mount Harry near Lewes and Coldharbour, which is south of Petworth. Honeyed peach and light summer berry notes, and a long toasty finish, make this a delight to drink as an aperitif or with food.

4. Windsor Great Park Vineyard Release 8 English Sparkling NV (12 per cent ABV, £44)

Although vines were first grown in Windsor Great Park as far back as the twelfth century, the most recent ones were planted in 2011 on a south-facing, three-hectare site. The 2015 vintage bubbly from them won a gold medal at Mundus Vini and a bronze at the Sommelier Wine Awards (both in 2020). This alluring non-vintage blend has citrus, peach and cooked apple notes with a long, fresh finish.

5. Kew Gardens Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut, Crémant de Loire AOC (12 per cent ABV, £18.99)

This lovely Crémant, also made by the traditional method, comes from Cabernet Franc grapes (with a splash of Grolleau) in the Loire Valley, but is named after a collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, south-west London.

This is the largest living plant collection in the world, which would have appealed to the winemaker Jean-Pierre Sauvion, himself a devotee of both sustainability and biodiversity of flora and fauna. Creamy raspberry and strawberry notes are prominent, along with a stony, citrus edge. A very enjoyable bubbly at a competitive price.

A visit to Roussillon

How Roussillon continues to excel despite its many challenges

Last year the South West France wine region of Roussillon was declared an arid region after years of repeated drought. Despite a wet winter and a much-needed top-up of the water table, winemakers here still have to cope with very dry conditions and the resulting low yielding vines, with projections that almost a quarter of all vines will be grubbed up in the next three years. Despite this the region is a model of an agro-environmental approach to viticulture with some of the highest percentages of organic winemaking in the world. Not only that but the wines are showing wonderful concentration with finesse as Geoffrey Dean reports.

5th September 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

Times have not been easy of late for winemakers in Roussillon, France’s hottest and driest wine region. Semi-arid conditions have been their lot since 2022, culminating in the driest year on record in Roussillon last year, with rainfall down to an average of 192mm and, it is projected that, over the next three years, as many as 5,000 hectares of the 19,000 currently under vine will be grubbed up.

The wines made, however, continue to impress as far as quality and value-for-money are concerned. On a recent trip there, it was hard not to be bowled over by so many of them, with half the area’s vines being over 50-years old on a unique mosaic of soils. Many are unirrigated.

Red wines continue to be the mainstay of production, comprising 62% of it, with rosé 24% and whites 14%. The latter could well rise, though, for where there is some replanting of vines, it tends to be with white varietals, according to Eric Aracil, export director for the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon (CIVR). While co-operatives, which number 25, play an important role, producing 56% of Roussillon’s wines, there are around 1900 wineries in the region.

The statistic that really stands out is that 32% of Roussillon’s vines are farmed organically, the highest in any of France's wine regions. Moreover, 40% of volume is committed to organic production or conversion. Throw in another 36% of volume that is HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) registered, and that means three-quarters of all volume is committed to an agro-environmental approach. Few regions in the world can match that.

Domaine Lafage

Lafage's experiment with Biochar, the fine-grained carbon compost applied to the soil under vine rows, has been hugely successful

If there is one winery in Roussillon that is the biggest disciple of biodiversity and regenerative agriculture, it is Domaine Lafage, whose first-rate range is imported into the UK by Hallgarten & Novum. One of the first seven cellars globally to be certified in 2023 as a regenerative producer by the RVA (Regenerative Viticulture Association) and Ecocert, it has constantly been adapting its viticultural practices. The estate is 341 hectares in size, but in its determination to avoid monoculture, only 91ha are under vine (66 being certified organic and 25 certified regenerative).

As much as 140ha of cover crops are sown between the Lafage vines to mustard, oats, rye and faba beans. Sheep graze 35ha of this cover every winter, while nearly 10 million insects and moths are consumed annually by bats from 98 shelters and tits from 48 nest boxes. Seventy hectares are not farmed, being fallow, garrigue or moorland – rich in natural plant species. There are also 9.5km of hedgerows.

Lafage's experiment with Biochar, the fine-grained carbon compost applied to the soil under vine rows, has been so successful that other producers in France, notably in Burgundy, are repeating it. As local water availability in the area is extremely limited, exacerbated by the lower rainfall of 2022-24, precision irrigation has become ever more important. With the old permitted irrigation of 1500 cubic metres per hectare reduced to 500, Biochar’s water-retentive capability has proved invaluable. Lasting years in the soil, it also retains nutrients, encouraging growth.

Domaine de Bila-Haut

Aurelien Capel of Bila-Haut

No less a champion of biodynamic farming is Domaine de Bila-Haut, whose 100 hectares under vine gained certification in 2019. Founded by Michel Chapoutier, the estate produces some of Roussillon’s finest red and white still wines, which are imported into the UK by Hatch Mansfield. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan are the black grapes grown, with Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu the white. The labels from AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages sub-appellations of Latour de France and Lesquerdes showed particularly well, while both the red (100% Grenache) and white (90% Grenache Gris) AOP Collioure Chrysopée 2022 Parcellar Selection were stunning wines.

“The Chrysopée is maybe the most beautiful plot we have,” Aurélien Capel, Bila Haut’s operations manager, said. “It’s on schist soil on terraces with a cliff below it and then the sea.” Just south of Collioure lies the vineyard for Bila Haut’s exquisite AOP Banyuls Rimage 2021 (Grenache, 16% abv, 80g/l RS), with its intense red and black fruit notes and hints of spice and cocoa.

Château Lauriga

Jean-Claude Mas

Château Lauriga, which was bought by Jean-Claude Mas in 2016, has 53 hectares under vine, all certified organic, but he revealed the estate received a paltry 50mm of rain last year.

“The vines were weak when we took over thanks to rough vineyard management, and were prone to fungus and disease,” he recalled. “Little by little we’ve been recovering the state of the vineyards. We’re just avoiding hydric stress, giving them 100mm of drip irrigation per year. In this climate, you need to work the soil so that the water percolates and doesn't evaporate.”

Some 80-year old Grenache Blanc bush vines provided 85% of the blend with Macabeu for the appealing Château Lauriga Soleil Blanc 2023 AOP Côtes du Roussillon. Its red counterpart – named Cuvée Jean 2022 – was a blend of Syrah (60%), Carignan (30%) and Grenache (10%) from vines aged 15-45 years old, yielding 30hl/ha. This showed superbly with red fruit, black olive, spice and herbal notes along with velvety tannins and real freshness.

Château Nadal Hainault

A short drive from Château Lauriga can be found Château Nadal Hainault, the idyllic site of a twelfth century Cistercian monastery that was partially destroyed in the French Revolution. Not long after it – in 1826 – the Hainault family bought the estate and celebrates 200 years of ownership next year. Their 27 organically-certified hectares include a parcel of ancient, very low-yielding (18hl/ha) Carignan vines that were planted in 1900 on limestone and clay.

The latest release is the 1900 Centenaire Carignan IGP Côtes Catalanes 2023. Matured in stainless steel, this is a special wine, notable for its freshness, minerality and concentration. Refined raspberry notes and silkily soft tannins dance across the palate. It is sold in the UK by Vindependents, which imports much of its impressive range.

Domaine la Pertuisane

Estate owner Richard Case

Some similarly old plots of dry-farmed Grenache bush vines in Maury are situated at the picturesque Domaine la Pertuisane, where owner Richard Case and his wife Sarah have melded seamlessly into the wine-making fraternity. Case, a graduate of Plumpton College, and his partner Dave Phinney, of California’s Orin Swift fame, favour big, rich, full-bodied wines. As beguiling as its label was wacky was the Green Eggs & Vin 2022 IGP Côtes Catalanes, a field blend of seven varietals from an ultra steep site: Grenache Noir (60%), Carignan (15%), Grenache Gris (15%), Macabeu (5%), Carignan Blanc (2%), Grenache Blanc (2%) and Alicante Bouschet (1%).

Cave Dom Brial

Agnes Arquier of Cave Dom Brial

Roussillon’s best-known co-operative, Cave Dom Brial, was established in 1923 and takes fruit from 200 growers, all of whom are members of the Vignerons Engagés association (‘responsible vine-growers’). As such, they must be certified bodynamic, organic or HVE. Of the 1700 hectares under Dom Brial's auspices, 200 are organically farmed.

“Our core value is to make quality wines,” winemaker Agnes Arquier says. She has 45 labels, including an entry level, low alcohol number (9.5%) named Brio Brial, which is made from Marselan. Her extensive Vins Doux Naturels included a superb NV AOP Rivesaltes Tuilé Hors d’Age that is imported into the UK by Hallgarten & Novum (RRP £20.50).

Some of the many other wineries...

Finally, there were a number of wineries that impressed without being visited. Château de Corneilla Cavalcade 2023, AOP Côtes du Roussillon, a blend of Macabeu, Grenache Blanc and Rolle, was made by a Catalan Scot named William Jonqueres d’Oriola, and showed very well. So too did the Domaine Torredemer Mangin Papillon Rouge 2023, IGP Côtes Catalanes, a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Carignan. The latter is brought into the UK by People’s Wine, the Dalston-based importer. And for a fine AOP Maury Sec Grenache from 60-year old bush vines, look no further than Jeff Carel’s wacky ‘Under my Skin’ 2023 label. Concentration yet finesse were its hallmarks, like so many of Roussillon’s wines.

Wine Tourism in Salta

Geoffrey Dean: How to find paradise as a wine tourist in Salta

The highest commercial vineyard in the world, a 65 kilometre canyon, 30 wineries between 1700 and 3000 metres high, a wine estate with 130 horses to ride, zero light polution, Argentina’s oldest winery… there is so much to travel to Salta for, writes Geoffrey Dean who shares some discoveries and top tips for wine tourists travelling to the region.

29th August 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

South America is blessed with many wine regions of outstanding natural beauty, but none are more spectacular than the province of Salta in northern Argentina. For the wine tourist, it is hard to beat, possessing as it does the highest commercial vineyard in the world - Colomé’s Altura Maxima site at 3,111m - as well as numerous other super-premium wineries and the delightful town of Cafayate around which many are clustered. Throw in accommodation options to suit a range of budgets as well as some superb restaurants in which to drink the local wines, and you have all the ingredients for a special wine tourism experience.

While Mendoza can boast more wineries, Salta has over 30 which are mostly situated between 1,700 and 3,000 metres high in the picturesque Calchaqui Valley, which extends 500 kilometres from the north of the province into two provinces further south, Tucumán and Catamarca.

One of the most dramatic stretches of the Calchaqui Valley is the striking 65-kilometre canyon named Quebrada de las Canchas. The road from the city of Salta takes you through it en route to Cafayate, a three-hour drive to the south.

More on Cafayate later, but for those wishing to stay nearer to the city of Salta, a highly recommended option is a 400-year old estate named Estancia El Bordo de Las Lanzas. Remarkably, the 2,500-hectare property has been owned by one family since 1582, with the current proprietor Agustín Arias being eleventh generation. From there, Arias will organise visits for guests to the province’s wineries, saving them the hassle and potential pitfalls of car hire. He also arranges accommodation in Cafayate or at Colomé itself.

El Bordo de Las Lanzas is an experience in itself. Between them, Arias and his brother have 130 horses, providing guests with a selection of mounts for lengthy rides around the picturesque estancia. Also housing 500 head of cattle, it is heavily forested, with trees from all over the world. Its imposing main house is constructed in the Spanish colonial style with big bedrooms, thick adobe walls and ceramic tile floors. Guests are welcomed like members of the family, and royally fed, notably with the estate’s own beef.

Colomé – Argentina’s oldest winery

If staying at El Bordo de las Lanzas, the estancia can also organise transport to Colomé, Argentina’s oldest winery, which dates back to 1831. This is one of South America’s great drives – a long one of up to five hours south-west of Salta but a stunning one. It is a striking journey, taking you through the scenic River Escoipe valley, up a steep escarpment and then through the Cardones National Park where tens of thousands of cacti adorn vast landscapes.

From there, you pass through the quaint town of Molinos, and on through increasingly mountainous terrain till you reach the winery of Colomé. The charming Estancia Colomé boutique hotel, which has nine suites, is located right by one of its vineyards at 2300m in jaw-droppingly beautiful terrain.

Colome's Altura Maxima vineyard

A hike or ride on horseback takes you further up the mountain to its highest vineyard of 3,111 whose old vines, planted on limestone and granitic soils, produce one of Argentina’s greatest Malbecs, Colomé Altura Maxima. French winemaker Thibaut Delmotte, who has worked for Colomé for 20 years after marrying a local girl, uses no new oak for this notably floral wine, which spends 24 months in third and fourth fill barrels.

Colomé’s extreme remoteness, altitude and complete absence of light pollution afford it constellations of extraordinary splendour. In addition, thanks to its late owner Donald Hess, it houses the James Turrell Museum, which contains five decades of the renowned Californian artist’s work, which is about space and the light that inhabits it. Throw in the hotel’s superb restaurant, which specialises in own-farm-to-table cuisine, and you have a memorable place to spend a few days.

Staying in Cafayate

The same can be said for Cafayate, a delightful little town with colonial architecture and a laid-back rhythm. A lovely place to stay, on its outer edge but within walking distance of the main square, is at the El Porvenir winery. It has a guesthouse for six as well as five chalets in the middle of its vineyards and a couple of comfortable rooms in a converted stable block. Another good option - on the Estancia de Cafayate, a couple of kilometres outside the town - is the Grace Hotel’s high-end villas.

For cuisine in Cafayate, the Bad Brothers Wine Experience is the town’s most vibrant wine bar and restaurant, being co-owned by leading winemaker Agustín Lanús and American entrepreneur, David Galland. All the region’s extreme altitude wines are available for tasting, notably the Domingo Molinos wines and Lanus’ own ultra-premium Sunal labels.

“Sunal” is a play on’ sun and altitude’ as well as being his name spelt backwards. Galland lives in England for the UK’s summer months but returns to Cafayate for the rest of the year as “I found paradise here.” A fitting epitaph for Salta.

Wines for August (Telegraph Media)

Refreshing drinks to accompany long summer evenings

Four whites, three reds (best served chilled), a rosé and an elderflower spritz from Laithwaites to sip the season away. Find the perfect pour for your next get-together from this August selection of handpicked wines

Geoffrey Dean

07 August 2025 10:00am BST

A varied selection of eight wines and a light sparkler is in order for August, whether you are taking them on holiday to a French villa, grabbing something to take to a genteel sporting event or festival, at friends’ houses for a summer soiree or just relaxing at home.

1. Maison Maillet Rosé 2024, Méditerranée IGP (12 per cent ABV, magnum £22)

What better way to toast being on holiday than with a Provençal rosé of real typicity and charm. Salmon pink in colour, this one has ripe summer berries on the palate, with aromas of wild herbs and blossom. This family business was founded by Louis Maillet in 1860, and is now led by fourth-generation Michel Maillet.

Situated near the celebrated Bandol appellation, the estate has long been known for its quality rosé, with Grenache the predominant grape in a blend that also features Cinsault and Syrah. In a fun nod to the nearby F1 circuit, the cork is etched with a racing flag, making it the perfect accompaniment when viewing the Dutch Grand Prix on 31 August. Ideal with salads and seafood.

2. Tempo Lungo Organic Pinot Grigio 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT (11 per cent ABV, £11.99)

In the past few years, Sicily has become one of Italy’s most talked-about wine regions. When on holiday, this delightful Pinot Grigio from organically farmed fruit is another easy-drinking wine to start the afternoon or evening as an aperitif, or to accompany food such as risotto and fish. Hand-picked early to preserve its acidity, it is refreshing with floral hints of apple and pear on the nose before giving way to citrus and melon notes on the palate.

4. Hacienda de Lluna Viognier 2024, Valencia DO (11 per cent ABV, £9.99)

Viognier’s spiritual home is the Rhone Valley, but this alluring Spanish example is a highly drinkable wine that was picked early to preserve its acidity and counter the naturally high alcohol levels in the grape. Aromatic with scents of peach and pear, it has lemony zest notes on the palate.

It is a perfect picnic wine (its closure being a screwcap) or as an aperitif. Made by Jorge and Marta Martínez, it comes from the highly rated La Viña winery. It goes well with honey-glazed hams, seafood and spicy dishes.

5. Amandla Signature Chenin Blanc 2024, Western Cape WO (12.5 per cent ABV, £13.99)

This appealing South African Chenin Blanc is made by an all-black, all-female team after three stakeholders united to further women’s empowerment in the Western Cape’s winelands; Praisy Dlamini is chief executive and head winemaker with Ruth Faro as viticulturist.

Fittingly, the brand is called Amandla, which translates as ‘power’ in the Nguni languages of Xhosa and Zulu, and the word was one of the ANC’s rallying cries against apartheid. Amandla won the Drinks Business magazine’s Launch of the Year award in 2023 despite a tiny marketing budget.

The wine, whose fruit came from a farm near Paarl, has refreshing acidity with aromas of guava and lime and intense citrus notes on the palate. Ideal with chicken, seafood or vegetarian dishes.

6. W/O Organic Frappato 2024, Terre Siciliane IGT (12.5 per cent ABV, £10.99)

A brilliant summer red, best served slightly chilled, that is fresh and floral with strong strawberry and raspberry notes. The Frappato grape is thought to have originated from the south of Sicily in the Ragusa province. Winemaker Dino Taschetta farms organically on elevated sites ‘without compromise’ (hence W/O on the label), using 100 per cent recycled bottles. This light-bodied everyday quaffer goes well with pizza, pesto or pasta.

7. Chilled Cinsault 2023, Western Cape WO (12 per cent ABV, £11.99)

This is the perfect time of the year to enjoy this exciting red, one that needs chilling, as the label implies. The fruit comes from the highly regarded Journey’s End estate in Somerset West, to the east of Cape Town. Owned by British entrepreneur Rollo Gabb, the winery is focused on sustainable production, and its foundation provides 20,000 meals per week to local communities in the Helderberg region.

Cellarmaster Leon Esterhuizen has fashioned a very appealing summer wine with ripe red berries, refreshing acidity and soft tannins. The breezes from the nearby False Bay help to produce an elegant, coastal-styled red that is ideal with light lunches or barbecues.

8. Inverted Flamingo Malbec 2024, Mendoza (11 per cent ABV, £11.99)

This is a real barbecue red that will go well with steak, sausages, burgers or chicken, being only 11 per cent. There is a generous core of raspberry, blackberry and damson with an exemplary balance of ripe fruit and crunchy acidity in this Argentinian crowd-pleaser. Juicy Malbec plumpness is evident through the aromas of violet and herbs. Once again, serve slightly chilled, particularly on a warm evening.

9. Britpop Elderflower Spritz by Alex James NV (6 per cent ABV, £12.99)

A super-refreshing lower-alcohol drink that captures the quintessential scent of the UK summer. Made by Alex James, the Blur bass player, who also crafts artisan cheeses on his Cotswolds farm, it is produced from elderflower heads picked in the Brecon Beacons of Wales. These are added to spring water, lemon juice and golden sugar, with inoculated yeasts starting the fermentation. Carbon dioxide, a by-product of it, leads to the spritz. There are elderflower, citrus and gooseberry notes on this warm weather thirst-quencher. 

Wine tourism in Uruguay

Geoffrey Dean on the many vinous jewels to be found in Uruguay

“We are the New Zealand of South America.” This is how Uruguay sees itself with a wide diurnal range allowing wines to have a good balance between acid, alcohol, tannin and fruit. Geoffrey Dean went there and singles out a variety of top wineries and wines, plus samples a variety of Tannat wines – from vines planted in 1870, to super premium and also carbonic macerated – through to Riesling, Albariño and Cabernet Franc.

26th July 2025 by Geoffrey Dean,

To the traditional duo of Argentina and Chile can be added a third South American country with all the ingredients for top-end wine tourism: Uruguay. Its compact size – around two-thirds of the surface area of the United Kingdom – make it easy to travel around; its wineries’ cellar doors are most welcoming, invariably with superb cuisine and often with attractive accommodation options; and the quality of the wines keeps getting better and better.

Moreover, Uruguay can lay claim to possessing the most stable economy in South America. Although its population is small (around 3.4 million), it has the highest GDP in the continent and the best classification in the Corruption Perception Index in Latin America. It is also number 1 in the Prosperity Index.

“We are the New Zealand of South America,” declares Daniel Pisano, co-owner of the celebrated Pisano winery just north of the capital, Montevideo, that was founded by his grandfather in 1924. “We have high natural acidity thanks to the wide diurnal range in Uruguay. Cool nights allow us to retain acidity, and there is a good balance between acid, alcohol, tannin and fruit.”

Just as New Zealand is something of a kid brother to Australia, so Uruguay has a similar relationship with Argentina. Many wealthy Argentines invest in Uruguay, notably in its wineries. Indeed, the oldest one in Uruguay which dates back to 1854, Cerros de San Juan, and perhaps the best-known one, Bodega Garzón, are Argentine-owned.

One of the easiest and most enjoyable ways to arrive in Uruguay is the one-hour ferry ride from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento on the Colonia Express service. From Colonia, whose historic quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is a 35-km drive to Los Cerros de San Juan. The owners, who bought the winery in 2019, have invested heavily in its facilities, acquiring six 1800-litre clay amphorae and recruiting Michel Rolland as a consultant. A converted barn houses a handsome tasting-room and restaurant.

An hour’s drive west of Los Cerros de San Juan, just outside the town of Carmelo, is the Narbona Wine Lodge, home to both a first-rate winery and a delightful boutique hotel with seven large bedrooms that have nice vineyard views. Rolland also acted as a consultant here from 2011-14, helping winemaker Valeria Chiola to produce one of Uruguay’s best Tannats, Luz de Luna. Narbona’s first Tannat vines were planted in the 1870s.

Another winery with a very comfortable lodge that has four bedrooms opening onto the vines is Pizzorno, which is situated in the Canelones appellation north of Montevideo. Carlos Pizzorno is a third generation winemaker and a very innovative one, producing Uruguay’s only ice wine and a carbonic maceration Tannat. It is very much a family affair, with father Francisco still overseeing the estate and sister Maria-Clara chief financial officer. Just a few miles away is Pisano, where tasting is by appointment only.

A third winery with its own accommodation – a pair of delightful cabins in the middle of 11 hectares of vineyards – is Bracco Bosca in the Atlántida sub-appellation (named because of its proximity to the Atlantic). The owner-winemaker is the irrepressible Fabiana Bracco, an energetic ambassador for the Uruguayan wine industry as well as a famously hospitable host. Even if not staying there, the winery is a must-visit to taste a superb range that includes arguably the country’s finest Cabernet Franc.

There are too many outstanding Tannats in Uruguay to laud as the best, but one of the most revered is the Massimo Deicas label, made by Familia Deicas on their Juanicó estate. The cellar there, built in 1745 by the Jesuits, is well worth a visit as is their cellar door. Santiago Deicas makes the wines while sister Mercedes heads up the kitchen at their popular restaurant.

As far as fine lunchtime dining is concerned, nothing beats the cuisine at two of Uruguay’s top producers, Bodega Bouza and Bodega Garzón, who were founded as recently as 1999 and 2008 respectively. Bouza actually has two restaurants – at its Montevideo winery and also at its brand new Maldonado one, Las Espinas, on the Pan de Azúcar mountain. While the former also houses a remarkable collection of vintage cars, the latter must have the most spectacular 360-degree views in all of Uruguay. Bouza, the first winery to plant Albariño in Uruguay, also pioneered super-premium Tannat, and is making world-class Riesling.

Everything about Garzón is super-premium. Owned by Argentinian billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, it is a memorable place to visit. The state-of-the-art winery was built by dint of remarkable engineering enterprise into a rock face, and thanks to its 250 hectares under vine (on decomposed granite and sand), is Uruguay’s biggest exporter of wines – to nearly 50 markets. With as many as 1200 different plots, none bigger than 0.8h, head winemaker Germán Bruzzone vinifies each separately to craft multiple outstanding labels, including the iconic Balasto Tannat. Interestingly, he uses no new oak at all for any of them.

The outstanding Garzón restaurant, which has spectacular views over the estate’s vineyards, was established with the help of celebrated chef Francis Mallmann. The Argentinian developed the open-flame cooking technique and devised a so-called market menu, where only the best, local products of the day or season are used. The beef, the quality of which is extremely high as Uruguayan cattle are grass-fed, is one of chef Nicolas Acosta’s specialities.

Finally, for the more adventurous wine tourists, as it is situated in the north of Uruguay on the border with Brazil, the winery of Cerro Chapeu is one that should not be missed. Situated near the town of Rivera, it is built into a hill for gravity-flow purposes. Co-owner and winemaker, Francisco Carrau produces one of Uruguay’s top Tannats, Batovi T1, benefiting from the fact the grape ripens earlier here. The tasting-room tower, which has stunning views, is actually just in Brazil, but accessed without ado as there are no border controls. An anomalous gem in a country with no shortage of vinous jewels.

Isabel Estate, New Zealand

How Jeremy McKenzie is taking Isabel from strength to strength

Isabel Estate has always been regarded in the same breath as Cloudy Bay and Dog Point for producing world class wines from classic grape varieties in Marlborough. But it wasn’t until 2014, when the family-run estate was acquired by Pinnacle Drinks and installed ex-Villa Maria winemaker Jeremy McKenzie, that this estate reached the audience and received the accolades that it has always deserved. Geoffrey Dean caught up with McKenzie to taste through all the new wines but also to hear how he might well be the hardest man in Marlborough.

22nd July 2025 by Geoffrey Dean

There can be few winemakers who are fitter than Jeremy McKenzie of Isabel Estate in Marlborough. When I met him for a tasting of his wines over a lunch hosted by the winery’s importer, Bancroft Wines, in London recently, the svelte New Zealander let it slip that he had spent two hours on the bike in the gym that morning.

That was a doddle for him as he had been doing what he called “quite a few big stints these last few weeks” including five consecutive hours between 4am and 9am on the velodrome in Marlborough, averaging 31km per hour, to raise funds for a children’s charity.

Even during harvest, McKenzie barely relents on his rigorous training regime. “I nip across to the new mountain bike track the other side of the Wairau River at Storey’s Creek, blaze out for an hour, then jump in the river on the way back, shower at Isabel and rock into work ready for the next eight hours,” he mused.

Towards the end of this year, he will compete in the Godzone Ultra event on the South Island when 30 teams of four will cover 700 km in eight days across New Zealand’s wilderness in what event organisers call “the most technically challenging adventure race in the world.”

“It’s the ultimate race because of the terrain, a lot of which is mountainous,” McKenzie said. “The route is kept secret until it starts, and disciplines include mountain-biking, trekking, running, pack rafting and roping.” The event is an international one with teams from Australia and Brazil also taking part.

No ordinary estate

If McKenzie, then, is not your typical winemaker, nor is Isabel your average estate. Located in the Wairau Valley area, the site itself is unusual for Marlborough, combining free-draining gravels with a narrow layer of clay in the subsoil, preventing excess water loss from the gravel. Of Isabel’s 43 hectares, 16 are certified organic, with more in conversion and the rest farmed sustainably.

Indeed, Isabel is very much Marlborough aristocracy, with its vines planted as far back as 1980. Through the ‘80s, much of the fruit off them was bought by David Hohnen, who played such a big part in promoting New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to the world by founding Cloudy Bay in the mid-1980s.

“David said the Isabel Chardonnay was world-class,” McKenzie declared. “It was the Gin-Gin clone, aka Mendoza, from the Houghton estate in Western Australia. We’re really lucky to have that vine material, which is over 40-years old now, and old for Marlborough.”

“It’s part of the fabric of Marlborough that’s so key to the region – whether it’s Cloudy Bay or us or Dog Point. We’re the heart and soul of the region. We know there’s a lot of Sauvignon that’s got no name, no footprint, no bricks and mortar. But what we and other key producers have got should be looked after.”

We tasted the Isabel 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, which comes from a single vineyard and has been very well-received in competitions.

“It was a fantastic vintage,” McKenzie continued. “It’s estate-bottled and produced…quite different to a lot of properties in Marlborough now. It’s very much that provenance story, and the style of winemaking is very different as well. There’s a lot more going on in there - there’s 15% in old French oak that’s naturally fermented and left on the lees; a riper fruit profile with softer acidity. Not a sharp racy number, just really well-balanced and a great food wine.”

That softer acidity comes from a pH that is a little higher at 3.25 than in a lot of New Zealand Sauvignons which tend to hover around 3.15. According to McKenzie, that higher pH comes down to the lower cropping with 3.5 kilos of fruit per two-caned vine, and 4,000 vines per hectare compared to the norm of 8,000. Lower density also helps give better fruit ripeness.

“All that sort of stuff lends itself to what we’re aiming for – almost a house style that doesn’t have searing acidity and isn’t a fruit bomb.” McKenzie declared. “We’re always picking to land at 12.8% alcohol and 2.5g/l of residual sugar. That’s where we like it every year to be so that we have that richer fruit structure driving into the wine, with time on lees to keep that ageability as well. That’s the other thing about Isabel – the ageability not just of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but also the Sauvignon. The ’23 still looks fantastic, and we have library stock going back years.”

Best kept secret

Even though Hohnen recognised its quality long ago, Isabel’s Chardonnay was perhaps Marlborough’s best-kept secret until relatively recently. From 2016 when the estate Chardonnay won Air New Zealand’s Chardonnay award, it has consistently picked up trophies. Then, in 2022, when McKenzie was voted NZ winemaker of the year, the Isabel Estate Wild Barrique Chardonnay ’22 was ‘wine of the year’ at the London Wine Competition.

“It was really good for the team as most of the guys have been with us since inception [more than a decade ago], with many coming over from Villa Maria with me,” McKenzie said of that award.

“We’re a very close-knit team of five or six, all super-passionate about Chardonnay. For me, it’s more about the brand, and wanting to see it thrive and get it back to its global status.” As much as 90% of Isabel Estate’s overall production is exported, with Australia a key market, as well as Japan, Korea and the UK.

Isabel has eight hectares of Chardonnay, the majority of which is certified organic or in organic conversion. Crucially, it has really good clonal material, with three clones – 548, 95 and 15 – added to the original Mendoza one. The latter is found in two blocks from which the Wild Barrique is made.

“It’s such a cool site, with that heavier clay soil,’ McKenzie said. “Viticulture is the key thing - we don't like to have a lot of exposure through the leaf area and fruit zone so that we maintain that acidity. We start with over 10g/l of TA and a pH of 2.95/98, so we put it through 100% malolactic fermentation. We shake some acidity out by giving it extended time on the lees, which allows the fruit and oak notes to intertwine well. We use 30% new French puncheons.”

“As the Mendoza Chardonnay comes out early in October, and you can get frosts through till November, we have a month when we’re on tenterhooks, hoping no frosts and chopper bills of 25-grand.”

If the Wild Barrique Chardonnay 2022, with its melange of lime, white peach and grapefruit flavours as well as saline and mineral notes, wowed the judges, then the Isabel Estate ‘Aratoro’ Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 raises the bar yet higher. Translated as ‘Path of Discovery’ this is only released in exceptional vintages, and is made in small quantities (1800 bottles in that year).

Six parcels of Chardonnay (Mendoza clone) and Pinot Noir (Abel and 777 clones) on silty clay soil in a valley between the Wither Hills to the south and the Richmond Ranges to the north are home to 45-year old Chardonnay and 30-plus year old Pinot vines, all farmed organically. “Both wines are about provenance and place,” McKenzie said, “with their expression equally as good as Martinborough or Central Otago.”

The Aratoro Chardonnay 2021 (13.5% abv) is a wine of sublime balance and poise with pristine, crystalline fruit framed by a scintillating citrus acid line and powder-fine mineral notes. White peach, nectarine, flinty grapefruit, lemon curd, roasted almond and ginger spice are all there. Pithy and saline, the wine is supremely elegant and harmonious, yet wrapped in layers of complexity with dramatic intensity and length. A sensational Chardonnay.

The Aratoro Pinot Noir 2021 (13.5% abv) came from a great vintage for the varietal in Marlborough that has the potential to evolve over many years. McKenzie revealed it had “quite a bit of whole bunch, with some parcels at 100%.”

Beautifully fragrant on the nose with aromas of fresh thyme, violet and red-berried fruit, these mingle with more earthy notes. So vibrant and fresh on the palate, it is blessed with fine-grained tannins that are both silky and plentiful, providing structure. A concentrated, complex core of raspberry, cherry and darker fruits, as well as exotic spice from well-handled oak (30% new, 70% second fill) all stand out. Throw in refined poise, quiet intensity and a compellingly persistent finish, and you have a world-class Pinot.

Sustainability is key

Isabel Estate’s embrace of sustainability is a key driver for them.

“We’re doing a lot of different stuff to most producers in Marlborough,” McKenzie said. “Dog Point is an exception in that they’re 100% organic but we’re nearly 50% organic, which is where we want to get to. We probably won’t go fully organic with all our Sauvignon but we will still be sustainably farmed. All our skins are composted and go back on the vineyard. All our packaging and plastic is recycled, and 70% of our glass too.”

“NZ$10,000 worth of native plants are going in to support the waterways. We have a collaboration with the local primary school where we supply seedlings, they grow them up and use 50% in the school creek, and the other 50% is planted back at Isabel Estate. I’m driving all that. Whoever’s working in the vineyard is accredited, so the people-side of it is well looked after. That’s becoming a more and more talked about thing with suppliers and customers. Our own solar power currently accounts for 20% of our needs, and our aim is 50% renewables by 2030. All our stormwater off roofs and concrete is recycled into the vineyard.”

Damian Carrington, managing director of Bancroft Wines, was at pains to point out the importance of sustainability to his clients.

“It’s commercially imperative as more and more of our customers are asking, if not insisting, on sustainable practices,” he said. “We try to make sure everything we bring over is sustainable. With regard to the Aratoro labels [RRP £72], we have limited access to these special wines, which are available on allocation for the on-trade and independent retailers.”

Buyers and consumers alike may notice a label change for the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from the 2024 vintage that are designed to highlight Isabel Estate’s single vineyard productions and the Marlborough appellation and Wairau Valley sub-district. The idea is to add both more of the provenance story and some cachet, but the wines of Isabel Estate are so good that the labels barely matter. Take a bow chief winemaker Jeremy McKenzie, senior winemaker Nick Lamain and the team.